Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ordered some parts from just jap and a one piece flywheel from extreme.

Namely, nismo engine and transmission mounts, thermostat, silicone water pipes and radiator pipes, fuel filter, braided clutch line.

ACL main and bigend bearings were measured up, fitted and torqued. Stock pistons and rods remain.

Exhaust mainifolds, turbine housings and stock stainless dumps were sent into Craved coatings for ceramicoating.

Bottom end is a little cleaner now!

post-12712-1276346050_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1276346065_thumb.jpg

Just waiting for the parts to come now........ ;)

Thanks Ben and nice to meet you!

Got my hot side bits back from Craved coatings today and they look very nice!

Then started to reassemble some bits tonight onto the new turbo's after cleaning.

post-12712-1276781693_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1276781772_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1276781807_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1276781852_thumb.jpg

Hopefully my other parts will arrive tomorrow!

looks heaps better than the rusty bits you dropped off Sean :D

if you are over my way this week, bring one of those covers with you, want to try and work on a colour match for the r34 red

got on thats gonna be close but its a metallic

painting the turbo compressor covers and heat shields to match?

Nah. Factory lookish is about it! Still gotta decide what I'm going to do to the cam covers. They do need a touch up.

This week was just preping the engine bay for painting as the paint that was applied in the past can be scratched off with a fingernail lolz.

So while the engine is out, it's the perfect time to fix up the shite paint job.

Half arsed job my buddy painter said when he looked at it. So hopefully tomorrow some nice white polyurethane paint will be applied on the lhs and rhs towers and front radiator support.

All degreased and sanded ready for masking sheets, primer and paint.

post-12712-1277467237_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1277467259_thumb.jpg

I'll try to bring one in Chris. Cheers.

Thanks:) Don't call em wallet stealers for nothing!

Last 26 I built, did the head oil restrictor, enlarged oil returns at the back of head and oil return holes, mines head baffles.

Wasn't enough, especially for track work, and due to ring gap being a little big, more blowby than normal which meant oil being forced to stay in head/get pumped into catch can instead of draining to sump.

This time, I have only added a tomei sump baffle, rest of engine is completely stock, save for ACL bearings. I have read the oil control thread too :P and chose not to do certain things.

And yes, head drain kit is on the way!

post-12712-1277470405_thumb.jpg

Pic courtesy of Spool site.

Still have to get a decent baffled catch can too.

Thanks:) Don't call em wallet stealers for nothing!

Last 26 I built, did the head oil restrictor, enlarged oil returns at the back of head and oil return holes, mines head baffles.

Wasn't enough, especially for track work, and due to ring gap being a little big, more blowby than normal which meant oil being forced to stay in head/get pumped into catch can instead of draining to sump.

This time, I have only added a tomei sump baffle, rest of engine is completely stock, save for ACL bearings. I have read the oil control thread too :P and chose not to do certain things.

And yes, head drain kit is on the way!

post-12712-1277470405_thumb.jpg

Pic courtesy of Spool site.

Still have to get a decent baffled catch can too.

Get a set of the mine's cam cover baffles. They work excellent. I haven't seen any blow by out of the vents on my new motor, during run in or on final tune.

  • 2 weeks later...

Had the mines baffles in the R32 when I built that. They do help, great for street, but at track days, lap after lap at high RPM I managed to fill the catch can and some of the inlet piping with oil.

Put the engine back in and fitted gbox this weekend. Only the radiator hoses, wheels under tray and the rest to go!

This piece broke when the twin turbo pipe was fitted! It wasn't even done up tight, and it looked like a casting issue? Broke the top corner right through.

So have to get another one this week.

post-12712-1278243125_thumb.jpg

Eng bay is all done now and car is back on the road.

Front disks were machined because of a slight shudder under braking but now they shudder and shake like a mofo under braking.

They were removed from the disk hat to be machined when they should of been given a skim on the lathe, so the disks will have to be removed again.

Engine runs fine and turbos spool very nicely, still pretty responsive but will need a tune to suit the -9's.

The exhaust is louder due to the exhaust housings being larger so sounds nice :)

post-12712-1278502121_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1278502316_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1278502415_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please use a modern ECU. PowerFC with the Nintendo Gameboy controller is horrible. It's not 2005 anymore.
    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
×
×
  • Create New...