Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im looking into getting front and rear brake upgrade cause mine arnt the best and i was wondering wats out there with out spending like 2gz? is there a difference between r23gtst and r32 gtr brakes? or can r33 gtst brakes fit because i think brembos will be to much money. the cars only for street so i dont need nothing to crazy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323255-brake-upgrade-for-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

id just go for some R32 GTR or R33 GTSt calipers and rotors... its only a 16mm bigger rotor or so but theres not much else you can really do without spending big bucks on 33 or 34 GTR brakes.

prefferably go for the 33 gtst brakes as they came out with brembo's. better than the sumitomo things on the 32 GTR.

id just go for some R32 GTR or R33 GTSt calipers and rotors... its only a 16mm bigger rotor or so but theres not much else you can really do without spending big bucks on 33 or 34 GTR brakes.

prefferably go for the 33 gtst brakes as they came out with brembo's. better than the sumitomo things on the 32 GTR.

33 gtst are the same sumitomo that are on 32 r

33r is brembo

^^^^^

Agreed. At least try that first before spending big.

Pulling mine down to every component, cleaning all the gunk out, replacing seals etc, then putting them back together with a quick lick of paint and some new rotors/pads did wonders for mine. And the paint added another 10kw, undoubtedly...

33 gtst are the same sumitomo that are on 32 r

33r is brembo

33 GTS-T is not same caliper as 32 GTR .. Both are made by sumitomo but both are a different caliper

Upgrade to 33 GTS-T calipers with slotted rotors and decent pads

if found the 32gtr brakes perform alot better, have installed a few r33 gtst brakes on some friends cars, none brake as well as my car and my car is heavier than most, imo pay a little bit more and get the 32 gtr brakes, im also using lucas pads, they are semi-harsh on discs but stop very well and are cheap as a full tank of fuel

if found the 32gtr brakes perform alot better, have installed a few r33 gtst brakes on some friends cars, none brake as well as my car and my car is heavier than most, imo pay a little bit more and get the 32 gtr brakes, im also using lucas pads, they are semi-harsh on discs but stop very well and are cheap as a full tank of fuel

Would expect the 34 to pull up better with 310mm rotors compared to the 32 gtr n 33 gts-t 296mm . So the 32 gtr brakes work better then the 33 gts-t ?

sorry i forgot to mention my car is an N/A chassis from factory, has been converted to a det motor and driveline.

i also upgraded the brakes to r32 gtr brakes, stock rotors (296mm) and lucas pads and yes, ive found them to perform better than 33gtst calipers, probably because of the larger pistons?

also id just like to say, dont bother rebuilding the calipers if they arent leaking or siezed, it will not yeild any performance gains.

I've had 32gtst, 32R and 33gtst calipers sitting next to each other and didn't notice a difference in piston size O_o

The only thing I noticed was that the 32R calipers were lighter and the 33gtst looked stronger (more meat in certain places) than the 32gtst and 32R.

sorry i forgot to mention my car is an N/A chassis from factory, has been converted to a det motor and driveline.

i also upgraded the brakes to r32 gtr brakes, stock rotors (296mm) and lucas pads and yes, ive found them to perform better than 33gtst calipers, probably because of the larger pistons?

also id just like to say, dont bother rebuilding the calipers if they arent leaking or siezed, it will not yeild any performance gains.

Made me strip down 2 calipers to check .. both same size here :blink:

Also my Project MUs are ok

Edited by Dsturbd
  • Like 1

I'm running 324mm slotted rotors, 33gtst calipers, DS2500 pads, braided lines and a master cyl. stopper.. hauls up alright :thumbsup:

Trying to figure out how to fit similar on the wagoon.. adapter brackets don't want to fit on the 4wd hubs :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...