Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've just got my car back after some major modifications with a healthy 272.9rwkw before 6000 rpm - obviously my crappy 235s have no chance of holding it in 1st or 2nd (barely in 3rd) so I can't get most of my power down.

The search is on for some new rears - to match the fronts i need to go 265/30/19

I was thinking of the Nitto NT05s but they don't come to Aus in this size apparently...

The two others i'm tossing up between are the Pirrelli P Zero Rosso and the Yokohama Advan AD08 - prices for these are around the $600 - $650 mark each (ouch :) )

Anyone have any thoughts?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323338-tyres-for-a-270rwkw-r34/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

take a look at the federal 595 RS-R tyres, they are fairly cheap for a decent road legal semi slick.

otherwise check out http://www.tirerack.com/ they deliver internationally, though expect ~$200 for freight and a $30 international money transfer charge when you pay for them, friend just got some 265 17's Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tyres for just over $800 delivered, the cheapest price he could find one tyre for in australia was just under the price for 2 from the USA even with delivery etc.

kumho ku36

federal 595 ss

federal 595 rsr

mickey thompson et streets

falken azenis

heaps 2 pick from

the old 3076r made 272kw.. what boost?

old 3076? I assume you aren't meaning the 5 blade one? Mine's a spankin new 6 blade.

272.9rwkw @ 18psi - fairly conservative tune, max power is in before 6000rpm all the way to redline so i could lean on it a bit more.

post-71984-1275531345_thumb.jpg

It looks a bit lazy coming onto boost but it makes the numbers.

I reckon there is more to be had in the mid range with tweaking/checking boost control and wastegate pre-load.

Have you modified your suspension? How much rear camber?

My R33 makes very similar power (allowing variations for dynos) and I have almost no issues getting power to the road with regular road tyres. I have the old SK GB suspension (bilsteins etc) and I have tweaked the settings around to suit me.

good result... was this internal gate?

Also.... I went and got new tyres the day before i started on my 3076r build because I knew how the after effect was going to be...

I have I think nexens (i'll have to check.. cant remember the brand) was 600 all up for 4 new tyres... 235/40/18s...

They hold on pretty well for what they are and cheap to replace! even when i had my car in 2wd they were good.. in awd theres barely any let go...

It looks a bit lazy coming onto boost but it makes the numbers.

I reckon there is more to be had in the mid range with tweaking/checking boost control and wastegate pre-load.

Have you modified your suspension? How much rear camber?

My R33 makes very similar power (allowing variations for dynos) and I have almost no issues getting power to the road with regular road tyres. I have the old SK GB suspension (bilsteins etc) and I have tweaked the settings around to suit me.

Yup .82 rear.

The boost does look a little slower than some other graphs - although we mapped it up against an R33 with almost the exact mods on the dyno charts and mine made 30kw more throughout the whole range and almost 70nm more torque throughout until both making the same power at redline - and the 33 was on 21psi. Thinking that's the NEO making the difference.

I might just play around with the gain on the boost controller in small increments and see what I can glean re the boost delivery...

As for traction it is standard suspension with King Springs - thinking of going the pineapples. If i put my foot past 2/3 in 2nd it breaks out everytime around 4.5-5k. But they are pretty average Hancook 235s...

And yes it's internally gated - spent enough $$ without going for external!

I was really only after 240-250ish when i began this whole thing but thought i may as well get the best parts and see where i ended up... I think the 273 could definitely go up but it is a daily driver and i want it to last a number of years so don't want to lean on it too much...

yeh looks the goods, dif comes on slower being internal gated

im running brand new federal 235 40 18s 595 SS on the rear and in 2nd with 290rwkw i dont loose traction and thats tucking rim with G4 coilovers hard as lol.. HRMM

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...