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Rb26 Block Vs Rb26 N1 Block

GTRAAH

By GTRAAH,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

Posted
Posted (edited)

Is it recommended to change the block if your goal is around 400awkw, I want a healthy engine that is rock solid and wont break. Can the normal rb26 blocks handle this power healthy? without wearing it down.

And yes ofcourse meaning everything else is forged. and all the other mods are added the last thing is the Block, should it be kept standard or change it to an N1 block

Edited by GTRAAH
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Takahashi GTR Rising Star

Takahashi GTR

Posted
Posted

In my opinion with 400kw it will be fine, just get it dipped and checked at a well known workshop get them to give you the ok before commencing work. Also depends on what combination you will be running.

Can I ask what mods you will be using?

GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Type B Tomei adjustable Cams ( Cant remember the measurments, but they are lumpy on idling)

Tomei Dump pipes

Sard 720cc injectors

Sard intank fuel pump

PFC

Z32 AFMS

Air pods

Garret -5 turbos

Fuel Regulator

Greddy Boost Controller 2 profec B

Oil - Air seperator catch Can

Xtreme Single plate Heavy Duty Clutch

Os Giken 5 gear set

Alluminium intercooler/turbo piping

Oil cooler

Spitfire coils

3.5 inch exhaust

600hp rated Cat convertor

So far what i have , ALl internals must be rebuilt forged. I Have not decided what yet

Takahashi GTR Rising Star

Takahashi GTR

Posted
Posted

Unfortunately mate, it does come down to what internals are being used. Many packages/combination's will get you 400kw no problems but how long it will last is up to your selection of parts.

Tomei 2.8 is your best bet but expensive, but what gtr with 400kw isn't going to be...

Deano45 Rising Star

Deano45

Posted
Posted
Is it recommended to change the block if your goal is around 400awkw, I want a healthy engine that is rock solid and wont break. Can the normal rb26 blocks handle this power healthy? without wearing it down.

And yes ofcourse meaning everything else is forged. and all the other mods are added the last thing is the Block, should it be kept standard or change it to an N1 block

Stock block will handle that, get it grout filled to the bottom of the welsh plugs to strengthen. It will help with the strength and harmonic vibrations. It is also meant to help with cooling. Wish I had gotten my block done when I had my motor built. Also make sure that you get a good harmonic balancer either Ross tuffbond or ATI

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
Standard block is fine, get good set of cams and plenty of head work... you'll need it for 400

Stock head will do over 400kw.

Mine is 455rwkw and no porting, another I know of has drop in cams and does 460awkw with stock ports.

Just add boost :laugh:

GT-R32 Grand Master

GT-R32

Posted
Posted
Stock head will do over 400kw.

Mine is 455rwkw and no porting, another I know of has drop in cams and does 460awkw with stock ports.

Just add boost :)

Hearing that warms my heart. Nice work. :laugh:

Where your engine doesn't breath as well, just add more pressure at a tangent to flow and ensure you're not choking it in other ways. LOL.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

having seen plenty of cracked RB26 blocks I would personally be going for a N1 block if you are after a genuine 400awkw. either that or if on a budget try and get a early model (89 or early 90) R32 GTR block. They are slightly better than the later blocks but make sure it's in good health and at most on it's first oversize.

considering the cost of a new standard block vs a new N1 block it's no contest in my eyes.

GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@ beer Baron as these guys are saying

*dont machine out the boors too far, get the crank balanced to a high degree

*get it grout filled to the bottom of the welsh plugs to strengthen, get a good harmonic balancer either Ross tuffbond or ATI.

*get good set of cams and plenty of head work

Surely all this would make it more durable then an n1 block?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

400rwkw from -5s is not going to be a cheap excercise - requires a switched on builder. You don't neccesarily need cams either.

Again, that same switched on builder will ALREADY know about how to fix the weaknesses in a RB block etc.

IMO if you use a decent workshop printing this thread out wont be required - given if you print it out and take it somewhere/someone who is less experienced - they will just nod their head and agree with you without really fully understanding what needs to be done/where/how etc.

Something to be mindful of.

GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
400rwkw from -5s is not going to be a cheap excercise - requires a switched on builder. You don't neccesarily need cams either.

Again, that same switched on builder will ALREADY know about how to fix the weaknesses in a RB block etc.

IMO if you use a decent workshop printing this thread out wont be required - given if you print it out and take it somewhere/someone who is less experienced - they will just nod their head and agree with you without really fully understanding what needs to be done/where/how etc.

Something to be mindful of.

Not a cheap excersise? Wuldnt it be cheaper then putting a to4z in ? I have cams already so i wouldnt need most of the stuff, All i need would be........... headwork, crank, pistons, rods, ALL THE WEAK BITS oil pans, oil resitrictors, n1 oil pump etc im looking 7grand MAX to get it done. Ive already spent around 20k on the rest of the shit. Incl labour. Do you know any good machiners? that know what there talking about for instance if i show them this thread

Edited by GTRAAH

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