Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

at the moment... i'm thinkin about gettin some cams for my motor

basically its a standard rb25 s2(unopen)

got a the standard mods

cooler

3" exhaust

greddy plenum

greddy t67 turbo 10cm rear

splitfire coils

nismo 740cc injectors

haltech e11v2

hks evc 5 boostin 17psi

car has made 375hp

basically i'm lookin at gettin some cams.. but unsure on what would best suit my application ??

i'm thinkin something along the lines of a step 2 cam... but unsure since this is the first time play with rb25's :P

any help would be great and look forward to seeing some answers

Dean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324528-cam-advice/
Share on other sites

don't get me wrong... i will push it hard

when the motor is built for it

so otherwise what your tryin to say... i can't do anything more for the meantime til i build my motor yeah....

and 300kw is down the track mark... more then likely puttin more boost into her when she is built

Edited by 26ame
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324528-cam-advice/#findComment-5289104
Share on other sites

ive been down this road mate.

I went for 240rwkw, that i could thrash all day every day and be perfectly safe, instead of getting 300kw and thrashing it till it went BANG.

You dont want 300kw if it will only last for 1 outing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324528-cam-advice/#findComment-5289362
Share on other sites

Hang on, 300kw on an unopened RB25 is so last whatever... Every man and his dog is running that without any issues.

Push 20psi on a good tune and see what happens, people are doing a lazy 300kw on 17psi on 3076s left right and centre... Ill be one of them soon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324528-cam-advice/#findComment-5289425
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...