Jump to content
SAU Community

I would buy......  

95 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'd go 996 easily out of those. E92 looks good on the outside but has pretty much no balls compared to the other cars, M3 has a decent motor but looks like shit and every obnoxious little asian woman who scraped together $20k for an e46 320i will think that her BMW is better than the M3...

RS4 is good, but they don't look aesthetically good. TTS is an amazing car, i'd put it performance wise better than most non turbo 996's and on the track it feels like it can keep up with an M3, they just handle awesome. Too bad they look like a girls car still. 996 is a good all round car.

I'd go for this for the money....

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=1293D6FC39EA

Or a C63

I'd rather build something that would beat any of these expensive cars for a fraction of the cost but that's just me. This thread was for votes/opinions, I gave mine.

Edited by Chaos Theory

You can polish a turd but it's still a turd. To build up a car that would compete with the calibre of car we are talking about would probably cost a fair bit more than the 70-100k budget stated. Building something that is fast, reliable, comfortable and looks good is not easy especially if you're going to start with a sub 30k car.

You can polish a turd but it's still a turd. To build up a car that would compete with the calibre of car we are talking about would probably cost a fair bit more than the 70-100k budget stated. Building something that is fast, reliable, comfortable and looks good is not easy especially if you're going to start with a sub 30k car.
32gtr......

:P

name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="
type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>&">
name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="
type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350" />

Out of those 3 i'd have the C63 all the way, i saw one in person and god does it sound good. Its a Merc which means a nice interior and good ride comfort and with that AMG V8 you can blast down the road into the sunset :cool: and make all those people in clubby's and GT falcons feel stupid that their V8 are so inadequate.

I'd rather build something that would beat any of these expensive cars for a fraction of the cost but that's just me. This thread was for votes/opinions, I gave mine.

I think you missed what the thread is about.... he can build a quick r32 gtr, but it is still in the dark ages, it's quick.... that is about it. You are not getting the comfort, the stability, the reliability, the drivability, higher insurance, defects galor, unable to use as a daily driver ect....

Anyone can build anything to be quick, but these prestige cars can do the speeds of a gtr and also come with heaps of added extras that you are not likely to be able to or be bothered to put in them. All comes down to what you want in a car, and if you are looking at Rs4's and 911's, frankly an r32 gtr is not what you would be after at all.

If you want something genuinely quick, then buy a bike, other than that you have no idea what speed is...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...