Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im looking to do some turbo mods fairly soon....

its for the stag (neo 25)

so far ive looked at a kkr430 (heard mixed stuff bout them...

ive heard they will hit full boost at around 3k on a 25... (seems a little low to me?)

a garret 3076r... is this going to be too big for street... do i really need somthing this big... also not tooo cheap..

or a highflow of my stocker to save rooting round...

i wona run around the 15psi mark... nice and safe and not too much for street :P

feedback from ppl whould be great :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325661-turbo-upgrades-what-to-do/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

a garret 3076r... is this going to be too big for street... do i really need somthing this big... also not tooo cheap..

Depends on what rear housing you get, I have a 0.82 on mine and it takes awhile to spool, but when it hits boost, it can be a bit of a handful but as you have AWD, it should be alright. If you want something a bit more responsive, maybe look at a smaller rear housing for the 3076, or maybe get a 3071...but for good response and power, I suppose you cant beat a Hi-Flow.

Go for a Garrett. Sooooo many options, amazing quality, lifetime warranty, well worth the extra coin. You wont be disappointed.

One thing I can suggest man, is that choosing a turbo based on a target boost level is the most backwards way I've ever heard of...

15psi from a 2860 is a sh!tload less air than 15psi from a 3582...

How much power do you want? Choose a turbo that's gonna place your power figure, smack in the middle of the meat of it's efficiency range, take note of what boost it should be putting out, check out the Garrett website for the catalog and compressor efficiency graphs for that. Then tailor a rear housing to suit your application (street car, drag car, circuit car weekend warrior, daily driver etc...)

good luck.

and you can get them with the proprietary nissan housings (new, not remade like some of these custom ones) for around the 1600 mark

go see pete at autosport, he's stocking garrett stuff now. was looking at a 3071 before my plans changed

Horror stories I've heard. I haven't used one personally but I don't put China rubbish on my car. My motto is always do it once, do it properly. I've seen first hand results of the 3071R and they can't be argued with.

In my opinion the KKR gear isn't exactly shit, more tedious to get installed. I was at Horsepower In A Box one time, when Morrie was installing a KKR onto a car. The supplied banjo flange etc, was wrong, so had to have a custom one made/find a replacement. Build quality may be a tad questionable compared to Garrett, HKS turbos.

Personally, if I find build quality questionable, I find myself thinking "what else can go wrong"

With our cars, there are so many options out there it can get confusing. But also, you have the experience of plenty of others before you to help decide what to do. At the end of the day it's your money, spend it how you wish. If you can stretch the budget to a 3071 I'd do it in a heartbeat

HKS 2530 or Garret 2860. Nice 250rwkw with boost starting under 2,000rpm with full boost by 3,500rpm. What more could you ask for?

f**k yeah... I love the powerband from my 2860 on my 2.5l...

Solid 200awkw with 13psi. 4cyl though... Full boost by <1500 :P

Edited by turbo x-trail

0.86 if you want more top end power but a bit of a lag monster, 0.64 if you want something streetable, which is what you will use 99% of the time. Depends too if you are going a top mount or low mount manifold, if you are buying a decent tuned length/stainless manifold, if you have upgraded cams/cam gears and how they are set .... there are lots of other variables too.

Just talking to the hypergear guy, would I want a .86 or .64 rear housing? 300 differsnce to go .86

I am running on of the Hypergear turbos......been running it solid for over 18 months or more now.....it hasnt given me any grief and i am running the 0.63 rear housing......makes a nice 246 rwkw and for the boost that you want to be running it will handle it no probs....by reading your post you are after a good mid range performance and not really care about the top end power which is perfect for the daily streeter.....

I think the OP got abit confused. The OEM housings is in .63 which is the OP6, the next one up is in .82. I'm confident that the OEM .63 housing can push out around 260rwkws, but if the power goal is higher then it is definitely better to go for the .82 rear. You find it makes power lot easier using less boost, with better torque and lot less heat.

The down side is .63 is more responsive, while .82 is laggier, So if its a every day car its probably worth going for the standard high flow, But if this car serves most of its life on tracks then the .82 is definitely better.

So three things should be put into consideration:

1. In future will I want more then 260rwkws.

2. What is my purpose of building this car.

3. Would I prefer the current driving ability with mid-low power range (ie Very aggressive with 1st, 2nd and low 3rd gear.) or some thing with hug mid-high power range (ie very aggressive on 4500RPM+ 2nd, 3rd and 4th).

I've got few dyno sheets on my thread, Please have a read which will be very helpful to your decision.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...