Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I drove an old 87 CSX Seca automatic corolla throughout my uni years (about 4 years) until one day I saw an r32 gts-t parked there. It was only a few years old at the time and looked awesome...I found out that it was turbochrged and my interest grew from there...

I started picking up mags and noticed the R34 GT-T and said that these look even better and I justed wanted to have one!!! What made the skyline even more attractive was the fact that they used to be unstoppable at Bathurst...(I didn't know about the differences between the GT-R and GTS-T's a this time)

In Nov one 2001, after a year of working full-time and one month after I was married, I bought my first skyline..96 Series 2 R33 GTS-T (couldn't afford the R34!!)...The car was awesome...kept it for nearly two years in which time I did some mods, couldn't keep traction anymore and then decided to go for a GT-R!!!

I love the car and plan to keep it for as long as possible :P

I was drivig around a 79 TE Cortina from the age of 18. Did it up heapes motor/sterio/new paintjob/dumped etc and was a real fun car to drive. Then in 1998 1 of my mates got a s13 turbo which was fairley worked. I dragged him, he kicked my ass, i was mad and knew i had to get a better and classier car. Then after getting my degree and staring full time job i bought my line which was in 2000 and the mods continue now with this car :P

I bought mine because I wanted something that would be a good "hobby". Something I could keep improving, keep me intereted and excited. And something I could take to the track.

And I can't think of anything better than a Skyline for that.

I never used to like skylines... I was so much a fan (and still am) of the MKIV Supra... I wanted to get a nice mkiv tt supra rz, but realised that I coudln't afford it without having to take a loan... but I still didn't like the skylines (cause they were the enemy heh)

But then I actually got to test drive one, then another... then I bought one :)

i had a mirage .. that sucked and soon as i got my licence i sold it and bought an S13 Sil80 (converted 180sx)

spent about 8k on that over the next 18mths of owning it, got it to just over 200rwhp and low 13 1/4 mile, then decided id rather a change than going the next step with turbo injectors etc on that car.

was getting ready to import an R32 GTS-T hopefully with an RB25 and some other mods from Prestige or the like, then my mate with a DR30 RS Turbo said he was thinking of selling so i waved some cash and the rest is history!

couldnt say no to a classic skyline! :)

OK- fess up time !! :P

I had a 2000 VT SS Commodore, Gen III. Modded mildly, it was pulling low 13's with just an exhaust, extractors, CAI and program.

Reason why i went the skyline ?? Although slower (as compared to same mods & cash needed to get the same performance), the skyline is a more capable all round car, in terms of handling.

Straight line power is fun for a while, but as a daily driver it is a bit of a barge ass...not to mention i got jack of the holden build quality.. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
×
×
  • Create New...