Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

need to pick someone's brain

car is r33 gtst

52mm isc alloy radiator

link ecu

basically the car runs so cold on my stock gauge im not sure its even up 2 running temp? and might explain my horrible fuel economy?perhaps in cold start alot?

i know its winter and all.. but during the day time it will get about 3mm above the cold on gauge 22 degree day... and at night it barely moves off the cold gauge lol 8 degrees last nite..

what could i do 2 try and bring it up more?

thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327400-r33-operating-temp/
Share on other sites

you cant really judge the temp from the stock gauge

i've got an ecutalk display and it reads the stock sensors

my gauge will start moving off the bottom at about 60° and the middle is about 80° but 80° to 90° it doesn't really move

if you want to know what temp its running you could get an aftermarket gauge and put the sender in the return pipe of the radiator (supercheap sell adaptors that you cut the radiator hose in half and put in the middle)

or go to jaycar and get an lcd temp display kit (prob have to assemble it yourself but its easy) and leave it in your car permanently

Put the stock radiator back!

But seriously take your thermostat out and test it in a jug adding hot water till it opens - or since you have gone to the trouble of pulling it out just put a new one in anyway. You should get a rough idea of how hot your motor is by the output of the heater. If there is nothing wrong with your thermostat try blanking off two thirds of your radiator for the winter.

replace the thermostat, it shouldnt matter what temp it is outside its job is to keep the motor around 80c and will only flow enough coolant out to keep it there. once they get old they can get stuck open and it takes ages to get the car up to temp wasting fuel and not allowing it to run at the correct temp it was designed for if you have a good radiator fitted.

you cant really judge the temp from the stock gauge

i've got an ecutalk display and it reads the stock sensors

my gauge will start moving off the bottom at about 60° and the middle is about 80° but 80° to 90° it doesn't really move

if you want to know what temp its running you could get an aftermarket gauge and put the sender in the return hose of the radiator (supercheap sell adaptors that you cut the radiator hose in half and put in the middle)

or go to jaycar and get an lcd temp display kit (prob have to assemble it yourself but its easy) and leave it in your car permanently

NO. put it in the top hose . from the thermo stat to the top radiator tank

it should run about 82 degrees . and idealy should be about half way up the gauge . does your heater go hot or only half arse . when its got as warm as you think its goin to get gout andt feel the top hose . it should be too hot to keep your hand on .

the gauge and the ecy have their own temperature senders .

there is talk about some ecus having different temperature sensors installed for the ecu to read . check if your two look stock

or just buy a new thermo stat . leave the alloy radiator in it . thremo stat most likely isnt doin its job

before going into solution mode, check the actual water temp with a digital thermometer

it might be perfectly ok and you are changing things quicker than underwear to possibly fix something that isnt broken

sorry, i meant return to the rad

i also meant to add that i thought the thermostat was at fault here

whip it out and boil the kettle, then pour the boiling water on the thermostat, it should open up

if not, get a new one - and don't get a low temp one, you just don't need it

Yep don't go off the stock gauge, there is no way to tell.

FYI i run between 69 & 73 degrees with a Race Radiators item on a typical day. You might need to just alter the cold start mapping and so on

69 to 73?? That sounds quite cold, thought the ideal operating temperature is around 80degrees?

Long as cold start is adjusted and so on, I don't have any economy issues to speak of :whistling:

I get 400-450km to a tank (55l) around town or around 550km cruising @ 100

So it's clearly not a problem, and makes the same power as everyone else!

69 to 73?? That sounds quite cold, thought the ideal operating temperature is around 80degrees?

its a 31 thing, myne does the same. will not budge from 69 at night time. got up to a boiling 82 out on the track :whistling:

Maybe, i also have a thick intercooler & a small A/C condenser all infront of the rad as well, and the front bar really doesnt let much air in given the intake is less than half the size of the rad.

It'd be interesting to have someone look properly into it and workout why :whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...