Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

MicolourLogo2.gif

Proudly Presents:

Micolour SAU-Vic DECA Motorkhana ROUND 3of4 of the 2010 DECA CHAMPIONSHIP

When : Saturday 14th August 2010

Where : DECA - Shepparton, 145 Wanganui Road, Shepparton, VIC 3630

Cost : $85

Max Entries : 50 + Reserves

-= PLEASE NOTE =-

The insurer of the event (AASA) has issued supplimentary regulations that require all entrants to wear helmets during all competition. This includes the skidpan and all battles.

This also impacts passengers, as they must also now wear a helmet prior to entering a competition vehicle.

A fire extinguisher is required by all entrants. This is for your own safety.

Please re-read the supplimentary regulations before entering the event.

Entry Form & Supp. Regs. : ENTRY FORM

Event Schedule: Event Sched

Results: Not yet available

YOU WILL NOT BE PUT ON THE LIST WITHOUT SENDING AN ENTRY FORM. NO EXCEPTIONS

All withdrawles will be refunded after the event. Refunds will not be given after 5pm Monday 9th August.

Anyone paying by cheque MUST make the cheque out to Skylines Australia Victoria. Cheques made out to anything else WILL BE REJECTED.

Please support our sponsors : Micolour - Custom Refinishing, 7 Dissik St Cheltenham 3192, Ph: (03) 9555 8011.

1 Ryan Bell Micolour Sileighty***

2 Michael Eichorn Micolour Sileighty***

3 Tim Williamson Micolour R32GTST

4 Martin Sullivan S14

5 Leon Stapley MK1 Cortina

6 Stephen Hugh-Smith Supra

7 Terence Ho R33GTST

8 Gerald Tan Supra

9 Shane Janssen R33GTR

10 Greg Calmer S13

11 Roman Plotnikov 180sx

12 Dane Stokes Sti

13 Kieran Robinson Supra

14 James Dylan Fischer-Myall Sileighty

15 Jamie Lovett SS Ute

16 Sam Zimber Evo 6.5

17 John Packham S14

18 Daniel Robson Supra

19 Mohammed Tebeileh 180sx

20 Adam Birdseye R33GTST

21 Luke Schulze R33GTST

22 Allan Williams Exige

23 Jesse Carnie R31

24 Jeremy Taylor* S14

25 Dean Taylor* S14

26 Nicholas Vargheese Soarer

27 Dean Course R33GTST

28 Troy Brisby Some RB20 thing

29 John Richardson R33GTST

30 Hamish Hampton R33GTST

31 Tom Giordano R32GTST

32 Tim Bryan**** 180sx

33 Campbell Shobbrook**** 180sx

34 James Sherman Commodore

35 Marcus Stacey** E30

36 Julian Stacey** E30

37 Mario West Fiat Punto

38 Russell Cunningham R32GTST

39 Niroj Douglas R33GTST

40 David Talbot Commodore Ute

41 Matt Femino R32GTR

42 Clive Small EVO6

43 Adam Newton*** EVO4

44 Justine Shuller*** EVO4

45 Michael Gerlach Stagea

46 Grant May R33GTR

47 Ross Brown EVO6.5

48 Sandeep Abeywickrema 300zx

49 Zaver Mavany R34GTT

50 Brad Humphrys R32GTST

51 Dan Fewster S13

52 Andrew Richmond R32GTST

53 Chris Thomson R33GTR

Reserves

1 Quinton Richardson R33GTST

2

3

  • Replies 234
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...