Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls... Thought I would put my car up in here :O

Also looking for some sponsorship if any one is keen or could point me in the right direction :)

Cheers

Kate

Engine:

2JZ-GTE

Modifications:

2JZ-GTE

GT3540 .63 housing

6 Boost Manifold

48mm TurboSmart Progate

Custom Oil feed with inline Filter

Oil Cooler kit

20psi low oil pressure buzzer

New Water Pump / Timing belt / Seals

3 Inch custom Exhaust

Braided Brake lines

Braided Clutch line

Rebuilt shorter clutch master

Custom Sleeved Clutch Slave

KTS Camber Arms

KTS Caster Rods

16mm Supernow Rack Spacer

Ikeya Formula Tie rods

Custom Tie Rod ends

Custom front Uprights

Modified Knuckles

Modified Cross member

SuperPro Rack Bushes

GTR Rear Sway bar

SuperPro Sway bar bushes

Alloy cradle spacers

SuperPro Pineapples

Custom Single Piece Tail Shaft

Tilton Hydraulic Hand Brake (Twin hand brake setup)

Tilton Brake Bias controller

Tein coil overs

4 Inch Pod

Greddy Profec B Spec II

Custom Cooler Piping

Hks SSQV Bov

Toyota 1ZZFE Coils

680cc Injectors

BMI Billet Fuel Rail

Aeromotive Fuel Reg

Custom 2L Surge tank with baffle (Fabrication 81)

Bosch 019 Intank pump

Bosch 044 External pump

9.5mm Fuel lines

Adaptronic ECU

Adaptronic Vidi Gauge

7" LCD Screen for gauge outputs

Modified Throttle Body

FMIC

NISMO 2 way

OS Gekin Triple Plate Clutch

R154 Gearbox with Remote Shifter

Koyo Triple Pass Radiator

Hicas Lock bar

17" BBS 8"/9" Rims

Bride Fixed Back

GTR Front bar

GTR Rear wing

Tuned by PITS

414hp on 14psi

post-75334-1279713840_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279713853_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279713891_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279714169_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279714285_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279714348_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279714382_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279714785_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279714842_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279714865_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279714947_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279714964_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279715012_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279715076_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279715124_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279715138_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279715168_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279715234_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279715207_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279715256_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279715274_thumb.jpg

post-75334-1279715564_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329891-kates-drift-r32-skyline/
Share on other sites

few more pics of the build... unfortunately we didnt get many build pics which was a shame. we were pretty much stuck into it from start to finish... took about 3 weeks to complete. Pretty happy that i nailed the wiring first go... alternator light and everything works like factory apart from the speedo and tacho but the adaptronic looks after that. Was a little confused when it came to the wiper motor wiring as it seemed to be part of the stock rb20 loom but winged it haha

post-43499-1280499920_thumb.jpg

post-43499-1280499928_thumb.jpg

post-43499-1280499935_thumb.jpg

post-43499-1280499951_thumb.jpg

post-43499-1280499960_thumb.jpg

post-43499-1280499972_thumb.jpg

post-43499-1280499982_thumb.jpg

post-43499-1280499993_thumb.jpg

post-43499-1280500002_thumb.jpg

yeh i fabbed the engine mounts and gb mount

ive done the heat sheilding but still find that after a few track days the clutch fluid goes to shit

it has some tilton race fluid in there atm but thats already starting to show signs.... we did the conversion almost a year ago and have only had to change the fluid twice so its not that bad i guess

the pedal feel is alot better in the clutch since we had the slave resleeved to a different diametre

u know the clutch fluid is on teh way out cause the noisy tripple plate rattle gets less distinctive haha

Thanks babe you have all my pics yes i regret not getting more build pics but it was a short turn around kinda sold my forged Rb20 and started to build a Forged Rb30 and Skidman didnt wanna drift any more so we decided to swap stuff and put the 2Jz in the R32...

Good motor just that Tilton fluid can be a tad funky at times you either have clutch or not so im guessing this will be something we will be looking into as I would like to do tracks like standthorpe and Raleigh and QR is my main track and stuff gets a tad to hot to easily :bunny:

Kate scored another first place in the street class on the weekend at King of Drift... good weekend over all and no breakages... of to Stanthorpe this weekend

New video from sunday and a few pics

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0WxshmBSCY

post-43499-1281438928_thumb.jpg

post-43499-1281438941_thumb.jpg

post-43499-1281438952_thumb.jpg

post-43499-1281438964_thumb.jpg

post-43499-1281438973_thumb.jpg

and a pic that we got from the event before at parklands

post-43499-1281439225_thumb.jpg

Edited by SkiDMaN

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...