Only 5psi, And Hosed Direct To Actuator

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

maybe your turbocharger failed and yours has been replaced with an auto turbocharger?

maybe your actuator has failed and your actuator has been replaced with an auto actuator?

maybe your car was auto and converted to manual?

unlikely but possible

dont say that!

[VB-]

if i had to guess, i'd say boost for the gate is being sourced from the turbo outlet not allowing for boost drop along the inlet tract, and the guage is reading from the plenum??

[ryan101]

sorry, to jump in VB-, but shouldn't you source from the turbo outlet so you don't run to much boost? if you take is from the intake side it would be a different psi from the turbo? if that makes sense?

[bubba]

I take the wastegate pressure reference from just after the turbo so that it reacts as quickly as possible but, I take the EBC's reference pressure from the plenum.

[89CAL]

R33 manual actuator is 5psi as well thought isnt it? otherwise how would it do 5psi low - 7psi high above 4500rpm?

If you want I have a turbosmart dual stage boost controller, you can hook it up to stock wiring to run low then high after 4500 like standard or just run a single boost

Edited July 22, 2010 by 89CAL

[paulr33]

mythbusters ahoy!

Use the air gun to blow compressed air approx A ~ B kgcm2 into the hose and make sure the swing valve controller rod operates.

where

HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi

BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi

ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi

ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi

BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi

be sure to note, that ECR33 has dual stage boost, that is the std solenoid will bleed an additional 2psi above 4500rpm

so if the std actuator according to the nissan spec manual is 5psi for AUTO R33 GTST, then at 4500rpm+ to redline, you get 7psi minimum boost

so if the std actuator according to the nissan spec manual is 5psi for MANUAL R33 GTST, then at 4500rpm+ to redline, you get 9psi minimum boost

if someone can find ER34/BNR34 please let

[Galois]

mythbusters ahoy!

where

HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi

BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi

ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi

ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi

BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi

be sure to note, that ECR33 has dual stage boost, that is the std solenoid will bleed an additional 2psi above 4500rpm

so if the std actuator according to the nissan spec manual is 5psi for AUTO R33 GTST, then at 4500rpm+ to redline, you get 7psi minimum boost

so if the std actuator according to the nissan spec manual is 5psi for MANUAL R33 GTST, then at 4500rpm+ to redline, you get 9psi minimum boost

if someone can find ER34/BNR34 please let

is the ecr33 there s1 or s2? s2 r33 and r34 have the same turbo afterall

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

my guage goes off the plenum, should i tee it into just after the turbo?

ok, the big question, if my spring really is 5psi, will a controller be able to change it to 7psi constant? or does the 5psi spring limit it to 5psi?

[JonnoHR31]

boost controller can give you anywhere from 5psi to 30psi for most of them

[paulr33]

no, the service manual does not differentiate between year build / series

it simply says

ECR33 auto blah blah, ECR33 manual blah blah

The R34 service manual does the same, doesn't differentiate between year / build / series and simply says ER34 blah blah (it doesnt mention difference for auto / manual in ER34)

[paulr33]

no, the actuator spring level is the minimum boost you can run

ie you cant run 3psi because the wastegate doesnt open until it has 5psi at it's vac line

you use a bleed valve or boost controller to fake the pressure signal to the actuator, so that instead of the actuator seeing 5psi and opening, it let's say will see 2psi as your boost contrller "hides" the real pressure value. it swithces on/off quickly (duty cycle) and that let's it bleed a bit of pressure. this is how you run more boost. by giving the actuator a fake signal

[paulr33]

5psi to 7psi is easy. install the factory solenoid, but give it constant 12v power and it will be a basic bleed value

net result is instead of 5psi then 4500rpm then 7psi you should get 7psi all the time

[jrm]

So Paul is saying that R33 manual have a 7psi actuator? ... That sounds different to everything else I've read.

Anyway - R34 is the same as what you're saying R33 auto is (and everything I've read about R33 manual) - 5psi below 4500, 7psi above (because of 2psi bled by solenoid). Of course, as soon as you add an aftermarket exhaust back into the mix - all bets are off what boost the car will run.

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

awell ive ordered a turbotech boost tap so ill just use that instead me thinks!

also, i noticed some boost creep today, at around 4500 ish it started to creep up, and its hosed direct to the actuator, would this indicate a leak in my system somewhere? or a wastegate flap problem? (i have a 3inch bellmouth dump system)

ta

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

i have sort of an update

after it starts creeping past 5psi, it starts going really rich, it feels like it hits a flat spot and starts going slower, even though it creeps past 5psi, and it also pops in the exhaust when you take your foot off, which im almost sertain indicates lots of fuel aka really rich.

does this shed any light on anything?

[gotRICE?]

So Paul is saying that R33 manual have a 7psi actuator? ... That sounds different to everything else I've read.

Anyway - R34 is the same as what you're saying R33 auto is (and everything I've read about R33 manual) - 5psi below 4500, 7psi above (because of 2psi bled by solenoid). Of course, as soon as you add an aftermarket exhaust back into the mix - all bets are off what boost the car will run.

Me too.

BUT it does make alot of sence, as even running stock actuator and solenoid, most R33's seem to make around 9-11psi with full exhaust etc.

I only changed to an R32 Actuator because i got one cheap. And i wanted the 10psi immediately

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

i have sort of an update

after it starts creeping past 5psi, it starts going really rich, it feels like it hits a flat spot and starts going slower, even though it creeps past 5psi, and it also pops in the exhaust when you take your foot off, which im almost sertain indicates lots of fuel aka really rich.

does this shed any light on anything?

[paulr33]

it doesnt make any sense

why would it go R&R after 5psi ? i think something is seriously wrong or you are testing it wrong or guessing

how are you picking up that it's going rich ?

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

it doesnt make any sense

why would it go R&R after 5psi ? i think something is seriously wrong or you are testing it wrong or guessing

how are you picking up that it's going rich ?

i think its rich after 5 psi because you can feel the throttle change and turn flatter and slower, and then when u back off it pops, as if to burn the excess fuel that came out.

[paulr33]

5psi is nothing, the ECR33 wouldnt run rich from 5psi from default mapping, even with 7psi it shouldnt

at least not until 7000rpm ie redline