Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i was cruising at around 45km/h in a 80 zone due to being stuck behind a learner driver, outside the roads are very wet due to a downpour. I switch lanes and start going straight and floor my car to get past (in a hurry to get home), and anyway i am going straight and suddenly at 65kmh my car changes into 2nd gear and the rear end slips out and i began acqua planning, so i breaked hard and then corrected the steering wheel the opposite way, and slowed down to a stop. the car literally went like a rubber band sideways. i suspect there to be something wrong with the wheel alighnment, i was going dead straight

i am incredibly rattled up :S.

plz dont label me a hoon i am sure u all wud of got a bit frustrated being stuck behind a learner for 15 mins ( wen it was only one lane).....it then merged into two lanes so i took the oportunity to get past.

:P:(:blink:. i am terrrified of driving my car now?

I am almost crying due to the experience.

Edited by La Bomba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330315-incredibly-scary-experience/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Thats happened to me before, i cant go full throttle in even in my not so powerfull hr31 in the wet without losing traction and getting sideways.

Depending on how good your tyres are will determine how much control you'll lose/have. A mate at work stacked his r33 in a similar fashion, he was cruising on the freeway and floored it at around 80kmh and when he hit boost he lost control, spun out and went up the embankment, missed a tree by like 2 metres, no surprise when I asked him what tyres he had on he mentioned some ling lang chinese brand shitty tyres.

Tyre tread? I did this in my 32GTS4 auto and scared teh shit out of me. Basically drove 20kmh under speed limit all the way home....

it is actually a non turbo. with a blitz access ecu.

the tyre tread on the inside has been down since i got the tires. my uncle who is a mechanic said to me the other day if he had to do a rego check he'd fail them. they are some no name brand that cost $143 a pop, looked at the service papers and theyve done around 10,000km's.

I never actually thought a car could attempt to spin out while going straight :S!

yeahhh i drove 65kmh home the whole way home. =(

the scariest part was coming a few centimetres from the median strip, which could of resulted in me rolling my car...i am guesing :(. gosh i am so ratled up

Edited by La Bomba

if your worried about your alighnment, get it checked. its not expensive. but i would be looking more at the tyres and pressures. and hey, the road surface was slippery. ive had my 32gtst step out at ~65k's, the reason being craaaap tyres in the wet... and flooring it.

check out the tyres thread :(

if your worried about your alighnment, get it checked. its not expensive. but i would be looking more at the tyres and pressures. and hey, the road surface was slippery. ive had my 32gtst step out at ~65k's, the reason being craaaap tyres in the wet... and flooring it.

check out the tyres thread :(

My car pulls to the left when i let go of the steering wheel.. it has been doing this since i bought it, and its gradually getting worse. so i think that may have been a contributer unfortunately. ie bad wheel alighnment. uncle said the left tire is the worst one. wen the rear slipped out the car headed to the "Right" direction

so is what i did the corectt thing, i corrected the steering to go in the opposite direction to wat the car was heading then slammed on the breaks?

Edited by La Bomba

i dunno, i was listening to an interview with a rally driver(cant remember who now), and he said to correct the steering, but to power out of the slide, and definaetly do not step on the brakes. i got into a 'situation' in my rodeo- slippery roundabout exit, no weight in the back of the ute, at the time i was relatively inexperienced, back end started sliding out- and corrected, kept a bit of power on and the car was just all over the place and i was sliding into the oncoming lane. so i tromped on the brakes and slid off to the side of the road. *shrugs*

maybe someone with a bit of track and rally experience cares to share?

Very advisable to do an advanced driving course, and take your mate as well who damaged his car by hitting a gutter in your other post.

If your Uncle is a mechanic I’m surprised he let you keep driving the car with low tread on the tyres that were not road worthy.

I really hope you do something about your driving skills and make your car roadworthy before you hurt someone or kill them while driving.

Very advisable to do an advanced driving course, and take your mate as well who damaged his car by hitting a gutter in your other post.

If your Uncle is a mechanic I'm surprised he let you keep driving the car with low tread on the tyres that were not road worthy.

I really hope you do something about your driving skills and make your car roadworthy before you hurt someone or kill them while driving.

i stayed in my lane even though i lost traction. so i believe i did okay considering it was the first time something like this has ever happened to me.

However I do plan on doing a training course once i get the money.

Well the car is booked in for a service on thursday and a wheel alignment next week.....so kinda was planning to replace the tires ?

China tyres in the wet are deadly.

I had triangles on my 33GTR (tonnes of tread) 45-50kmh, turned right trying to make the lights, ended up plowing straight on and barely made the turn....

RE my gts4, I had staggered tyres front rear, front lots more tread (read illegal) so that probably contributed heaps....

i dunno, i was listening to an interview with a rally driver(cant remember who now), and he said to correct the steering, but to power out of the slide, and definaetly do not step on the brakes. i got into a 'situation' in my rodeo- slippery roundabout exit, no weight in the back of the ute, at the time i was relatively inexperienced, back end started sliding out- and corrected, kept a bit of power on and the car was just all over the place and i was sliding into the oncoming lane. so i tromped on the brakes and slid off to the side of the road. *shrugs*

maybe someone with a bit of track and rally experience cares to share?

To anyone reading the above, please ignore anything said in the quoted post.

In any scenario where the car starts to oversteer the safest method is to jump on the brakes. Any driver instructor will say the exact same thing. Last thing we want is a bunch of people thinking i'll try and power out of this mess and end up in more problems.

What a rally driver may have said cannot be applied to on-road scenarios as they are completely different. (having done a rally driving course, the goal is to jump on the brakes to shift weight forward and then turn and power, making the front drive wheels pull the rally car through the corner whilst the rear oversteers. This obviously will not work in a rwd car, whereby counter-steering is involved etc)

By steering and powering in a rwd car, you are only continuing the oversteer and any regular driver will just end up spinning out quicker.

Strongly suggest driver training for anyone owning an import and not mention hearsay for the safety of others.

I reckon you hit a big bump in the road, the ass end went up, tyres lost traction, your foot made the revs go up so the auto kicked down and thats why it seemed like it kicked out.

Worse thing you did was jump on the brakes. But at least your alright could have ended up worse. I had it happen to me once, I was just cruising 100 km/h on the freeway and because of stiff suspension I hit a bump and the car jumped onto the water. Best thing to do is to do nothing except steer the car. Although if your going sideways well counter steer :(

EDIT: When I say jumping on the brakes is a bad idea I am referring to aqua plaining as you will lock the wheels up.

It's all relative to how sideways you are. If you are way too sideways to countersteer and regain control you can turn the way you are spinning, this will make you spin around (obviously) but it will also make you lose a lot the momentum you have, whereas counter steering will either keep you going sideways, or kick you back the other way and if you don't catch it you'll be in the same situation.

Go to a skidpan and learn how to countersteer, also learn when you have no hope of countersteering to get out of the slide... The point of no return.

Tapping the brakes can settle the car, too. Just once or twice, don't stay on them too hard.

I reckon you hit a big bump in the road, the ass end went up, tyres lost traction, your foot made the revs go up so the auto kicked down and thats why it seemed like it kicked out.

Worse thing you did was jump on the brakes. But at least your alright could have ended up worse. I had it happen to me once, I was just cruising 100 km/h on the freeway and because of stiff suspension I hit a bump and the car jumped onto the water. Best thing to do is to do nothing except steer the car. Although if your going sideways well counter steer :(

EDIT: When I say jumping on the brakes is a bad idea I am referring to aqua plaining as you will lock the wheels up.

Aquaplanting occurs when water is trapped under the wheel and cannot escape through the tread pattern on the tyres. Due to the water not being able to flow out, it lifts the tyre off the road and hence causes loss of traction to the road.

What you said above makes no sense because aquaplanting can occur when the wheel is spinning.

Unless you have done driver defensive courses whereby the instructor has directly told you that jumping on brakes is the worst thing you can do etc (i would like to speak to him), please do not provide comments/tips on how to react in a situation because any misinformed information can severly affect people once they cross up.

Aquaplanting occurs when water is trapped under the wheel and cannot escape through the tread pattern on the tyres. Due to the water not being able to flow out, it lifts the tyre off the road and hence causes loss of traction to the road.

What you said above makes no sense because aquaplanting can occur when the wheel is spinning.

Unless you have done driver defensive courses whereby the instructor has directly told you that jumping on brakes is the worst thing you can do etc (i would like to speak to him), please do not provide comments/tips on how to react in a situation because any misinformed information can severly affect people once they cross up.

Not trying to be an ass, but I drive 100km on a shitty highway every day (the bruce highway north of the sunshine coast) and when it rains there are spots where you aquaplane all the time. Best thing you can do is hold the wheel straight and let off the throttle, if you brake it can really unsettle the car.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...