Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh, my old R31 had these rocker covers on the the later model R32 engine it had. I left them the std R31 colour and just rubbed back to ribbed tops. I think they woudl look better if they were the std R31 colour rather than lipstick red...but meh. By the time they are covered in blow-by wont be able to tell :)

Well my 20G is going to be for sale once the new engine is tuned and run in. It seems 350rwkws is about the mark for a basic Skyline doing track work with E85 these days so need to go to billet or T67 to get there.

God that is a lot of power and going ot be painful to get oil and coolant temps under control :( Whole new suspension and rear end and diff about to go in as well so the car will be like new. Just have to decide whether I want alloy tailshaft or carbon

They are Tein RAs with custome valving and different springs. From memory they are 8F/4R or thereabouts. Need to check. New stuff is the same thing just that they are GTR gear so have the forks rather then eyelets so suit the new rear end I have. The GTR gear is being revalved almost the same as my current gear and I am throwing a bit more spring at the car as I have softer swaybars now that I went from custom Whitelien to ARC so needs a bit more roll control. I may end up going back to custom swaybars if the higher spring rates do things to the pitch that I dont like.

What are they worth. Well RussGTSt is selling very similar Tein REs near new and has had them up for sale for ages as he cant move them...so I guess less then that though my hoarding whore self may just keep them as they are near new and still shiney

Yeh, back in 2001 my car was the development car used by Whiteline to develop their Bilstein kit, swaybars etc. I kept that kit to around 2008 when I changed to the RAs. I almost got the Bilsteins rebuilt to be a little more racey but the Teins being alloy body pretty much sold me on them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
    • One way of putting the fuel surge idea to rest, is that even when in neutral/clutch in or free revving it still has the same issue, it can’t even get to limiter (7800) so to me that says it can’t be g force, I’m not trying to argue I just want to find the f&$king issue 😡
×
×
  • Create New...