Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

I have finally put pictures up on Gallery of my car. I had so many problems getting them to upload, but it's all sweet now.

I suppose it's a GTv because it has HICAS but if anyone else can tell me anything else from the photos, that'd be great. Any hints, comments question would be great.

cheers

Chanz

Edited by slinky-minky
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331956-new-photos-of-slinkys-skyline/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey man I have a gt-v myself, check your brakes if the front brakes are the bigger calipers with the nissan logo on them then thats a big sign that it is a gt-v, unless the previous owner has done a break upgrade, also your rear suspension should have the forks at the bottom for mounting rather than the eyes and one more thing to note is your diff, gt-v's have the gtt diffs but i have no idea on how to tell the diff. maybe someone else can help out with that.

Edited by mzahir

dudes i havnt even had the car 3 weeks and have done nothing to it yet so calm the F**K down....... lol

thanks for the advice mzahir and krzysiu

thats not a nice comment GUN_METAL_GTR32, just because its a bit of a sausagefest in here lol

Chantalle

To start off I'm putting a spoiler on it on the weekend, I brought it off one of the girls on the forum.

Also wanting to do some rims, but I'm not in a huge hurry , what would be the ideal size to still keep the same handaling characteristics etc and not nessecitate me to get it lowered? maybe 18's with low profils will lower the car and look better but wont they not fill the gaurds.... hmmmm

noooo 4 doors should be spoiler-less. you'll ruin the flow of your car's lines. please go into the 4 door sedan/taxi section and check out the hot rides thread for ideas.

also if you're gonna rock 4x4 profile suspension don't go big rims, the car will look like some lebo from sydney owns it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...