Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Where are those parts from? Like I said, I want to over engineer the block. It would be good if I could build something to easily handle 500wkw but run less boost (most of the time). This engine probably wont stay in this car forever. I would love to slide it into an s15 or something one day. :blink:

Into an S15? Would this + built engine (and drivetrain) make for a nice ride? I think so.

Edited by iamhe77

I think I would prefer to build the 2.5 because it is one of the best engines I have worked on, also it is what makes the M35 stand out on its own. Unfortunately there are no off the shelf parts for it which is its only downfall. 3.5 is definitely the easier option but so was the 260rs.

  • Like 1

I vote 4 the TEPS build on the 25, more of a challenge to see what you can ring out of it. But I am a purest.

Besides if you build a strong 25 with plenty of go, but later decide to try a 35 (4 mo powa) i am sure cam will take the motor off ur hands.

what si your goal?, the more cc's the better, If it was me I would build a VQ35 DETT with Motech standalone (8.5:1 & 2bar boost).

But if you put some quality pistons, rods and another turbo on the 25 it would be a pretty good combo.

what si your goal?, the more cc's the better, If it was me I would build a VQ35 DETT with Motech standalone (8.5:1 & 2bar boost).

But if you put some quality pistons, rods and another turbo on the 25 it would be a pretty good combo.

Goal is a reliable high comp motor running E85 at 1 bar. 350awkw would be nice.

Any of these engines are more than capable once built, the 3.5 would have less lag but with a 3000 stall it doesn't really matter. If I can do it with the 2.5 it will be less of a headache with vicroads and the auto can still run fine. I cant afford a manual conversion just yet although with a block laying around it would be a good time to make a bellhousing.

I'm not sure yet if the 3.5 will run on the stagea ecu either, standalone may have to go in anyway.

you should read the thread of the guy who put a vq30dett into an r34

its a rare motor that comes turboed from nissan in the cedric's i think

3 litre displacement with oil squirters and all the things that they add to the turbo versions

its in the fabrication section i think, or in the one to show off you track/project cars

you should read the thread of the guy who put a vq30dett into an r34

its a rare motor that comes turboed from nissan in the cedric's i think

3 litre displacement with oil squirters and all the things that they add to the turbo versions

its in the fabrication section i think, or in the one to show off you track/project cars

I'm sure every M35 owner in here has bat off over that build, still our VQ25det has all the same gear as well as variable cams etc, better design and newer.

to run a VQ35 all you need is a PM35 Trans ecu and motor ecu......piggy back it with an E-Manage and your off!

Or you could just stick with doing up the current setup :)

I guess nobody had chipped that ecu either?

Im thinking the 25 will be the least headache, and possibly a stronger block. I will have to wait till the spare motor is here and strip it to check. Has anyone over here had one of these apart? I guess I am going to be the first?

I guess nobody had chipped that ecu either?

Im thinking the 25 will be the least headache, and possibly a stronger block. I will have to wait till the spare motor is here and strip it to check. Has anyone over here had one of these apart? I guess I am going to be the first?

Just Jap had one in bits the last time I was up there......pity I was in a rush.......looks very similar to the VQ35DE

I priced up some Argo rods today, they want $2100 plus for a set of custom 2.5/3L rods. There is a local race piston manufacturer that can custom any size or shape for $1700. Starting to look expensive.

I spoke to my tuner also. He suggested the 3.5 with eagle rods for the power level I want with earlier spool, off the shelf parts are a damn sight cheaper at around $1500 for both. He also said going high compression is a bit of a waste when you can just run higher boost for the ethanol. Might be in the market for a VQ3.5de.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky the prp block is supposed to be released next weekend 
    • Wow guys thank you very much for the HUGE info :-) @GTSBoy I have like 30 minutes if test drive with that car/engine and it not stalled once. IMO it ran very smooth so i guess it was not that bad(but asi i said it is stock) That atmo BoV is worse than no BoV or in my case or it is/will be the same? Cuz frankly i rather have little whooosh sound than that sututu 馃槃 But either way the less harmfull for engine/turbo the better(if the stock is not an option right away) Yeah about that rebuild i talk with guy who will be doing swap and custom pipes...i think i can get stock BoV or get aftermarket which will function the same. Yeah i looked at that R35 option and i try ask my mechanic more about that if he knows. The engine has stock ECU but i can get Nistune for it. On that stock it runs quite well...but i have limited time with it so rly dont know. Ecumaster is this https://www.ecumaster.com/  It is not some dodgy backyard ECU :-)  @MBS206 Yeah but it will be better to have Nistune than the completely stock ECU no? About that "same" atmo/no BoV. The drivebility would be the same? I dont know but i kinda guess that amto BoV would cause more problems than no BoV in my case? Or is the same? You just "change" one sound for the other? Yeah i read many many many topic about hurting the turbo. But no one know anybody that would 100% tell that his turbo/engine blows/get damaged by not running BoV. Of course turbo would be little happier IMO if it has BoV ..but if you do not trash i think i should be good. And as you can see iam already trying to get this right...just working what i have right now :-) Yeah iam kinda the same...i dont want nothing loud and frankly iam not liking that sututu noise that much 馃槃 i rather have little bit of "whooosh" or no sound at all. Of course in my case it si a completely another world when you came tu Turbo car with open air box and no BoV and you driving the N/A ...all i hear is engine. Here? I heard turbo/sucking and that sututu 馃槃 @Yeetus So in my case it is really no difference to run no BoV or some atmo BoV like GReddy FV2? The car would drive the same and has "the same" little problems? As i wrote above i kinda thinked that atmo BoV with stock MAF would cause more problems...but then again i dont know much about no BoV either :-)  So to avoid stalling i "cant" just put neutral on stop lights like from higher rpm? Or? Yeah iam already looking for ECU :-)  Yes iam at the same side with thar R35 MAF :-)  @Dose Pipe Sutututu Thank you i (my mechanic/tuner) will look into that) Guess iam taking the Nistune at least :-) 
    • Here's the workaround with Nistune I was talking about, just add in more timing on the decel table And play around with the fuel cut & recovery, it's enough to stop it from stalling on a decel  
    • Hi Apex and welcome! 
    • Probably too late to reply to this, but worth a try. It's not calliper flex, the calliper as a whole is moving so it has to be calliper mounting bracket flex.  Calliper mounting brackets are designed to stop the calliper rotating, they don't need to be designed heavy duty to stop the calliper moving in and out.  Whatever it is is not the major cause of poor pedal feel, the outer pistons are moving towards the disc rotor the same amount as the inner pistons are moving away from the disc rotor.  Hence no change in fluid usage, what extra fluid is needed to move the outer pistons is recovered from the inner pistons. For a calliper to move as a whole by far the most common reason is the rotor is not perfectly centred in the calliper.  The first thing I check is that hub face is perfectly clean, bare metal, where the rotor hats contacts it.  Then I check the that rotor is firmly held in place by at least 3 wheel nuts (or equivalent). If all of the above are confirmed to be in perfect alignment then I would check the piston sizes and ensure that the 3 inner pistons and 3 outer pistons have matching diameters (eg; 28/32/36mm).  I have seen a no name 4 spot calliper that had 1 of the 4 pistons a different diameter. Maybe I missed it, are both the callipers exhibiting the same problem? I would remove the transfer pipe and inspect it to make sure that there are no restrictions. Maybe you already have but if not I would return them with the video and have them confirm all of the above.   Hope that helps Cheers Gary    
  • Create New...