Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I just personally prefer the 32 - it was the car that dominated Bathurst, and I prefer

the way they look... even if a little dated.

I'll avoid this V spec though.

You can get R33 GTR's for 20k in good nick.

Why would you waste time paying more for a R32?

I just personally prefer the 32 - it was the car that dominated Bathurst, and I prefer

the way they look... even if a little dated.

/quote]

Top Secret Imports are trying to get a couple of good quality R32 GT-Rs in for the 21st Anniversary.

Perhaps you can call them and see what's in the offing. 9676 1023.

They've been looking; but there are none worthy on the auction system atm.

I'd still call them though to see if you can be short-listed to reserve one.

Otherwise keep checking with Northshore Prestige and Nagoya Motors too.

I just took the V spec for a drive out or curiosity.

It's certainly not pristine, its taken a whack under the drivers side sill, and there's respray in that area, so its been like that for a while.

There was also water in the boot around the spare wheel well.

It seems to drive quite well, but the clutch action is right up top, so it's on it's way out, and smelled quite a bit.

I'd say it's a $15k car riding on it's V Spec badge to fetch a higher than deserved price.

This was just a quick assessment, I dare say a qualified inspector would have a field day.

The guys working there seemed genuine enough and not pushy, the condition of the car just spoke for itself.

Every standard color was available in V-spec II, the pop rivets holding the build plate on look mighty strange too...

that is exactly how they normally look. they are a type of tamper proof rivet.

that is exactly how they normally look. they are a type of tamper proof rivet.

Not that I would ever have doubted the Baron, but turns out mine has those too!!! Statement withdrawn, they look perfectly normal

Ha, ok mate, good to know, because I often like to take on GT-Rs in my shitty Honda Civic :worship:

Good that you drove it...

My old R32 resides in NSW somewhere now. So, if you see a GMG R32 GTR that looks stock as a rock with WA plates, don't race cause you'll lose lol.

No mate, not off them, I think they're awesome, the R32 GT-R is a modern classic, but I've learned finding one is

going to take longer than a week and I really didn't know what to look for when I began. I'm in no rush, so I'll keep

an eye on this forum and on the used car websites.

I haven't ruled out an R34 either but I'd need to save for a good while longer... A gooood while longer.

The one I drove today is the first one I've driven, it was completely stock, and without doubt the fastest car

I've personally ever driven, so I cant imagine what a modded one would feel like!

lol

heard of a Dr Ron Laura? Hes got mostly BMWs and Euros and tracks them with his son in NSW.

Staying on topic, are you definitely off all GTRs now? :D

Go test drive a well modded one.. lol

  • 1 month later...
If you drive i modded one, I don't think you will go back to a stock car because it will feel like driving a 4 cylinder Camry. :)

This is so true. I go in a stock one thesedays and I really have to check the throttle is nailed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...