Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Update on this for those who asked for it. Car made a very responsive 332rwkw with the normal road tyres on the same dyno. That is 17kw up on the semi's. Tip for anyone using semi's - don't use them on the dyno unless you want to have chunks torn out of them and make less visible power!!!!

Update on this for those who asked for it. Car made a very responsive 332rwkw with the normal road tyres on the same dyno. That is 17kw up on the semi's. Tip for anyone using semi's - don't use them on the dyno unless you want to have chunks torn out of them and make less visible power!!!!

good result, how much boost was it running and what ebc?

good result, how much boost was it running and what ebc?

Boost spikes to 22psi, before tapering down to 20psi, using a Greddy Profec B. Best way we could control it given the shitty HKS actuators - jap is not always best it would seem... Sent you the dyno sheets, makes 280rwkw by 4800ish which is really sweet on the street.

i know this may not be relavent but hot 4s or pi or something did a replacement fuel one day for it.

it was using methanol instead of ethanol and they used less methanol in fact a 40% petrol and the rest was methanol.

it could take more timing and made more power with the same setup maybe 10/20 kw over e85.

just again 60% methanol and 40% petrol and it wont eat through any thing but it can only be home made.

^^ 60% is enough to be corrosive.... especially if left to sit, it was called MD60 (Martin Donnon 60% meth)

he post on here and is a wealth of information, may be worth sending him a pm asking how safe it is.... im sure he will say not so safe (good for power though).

^^ 60% is enough to be corrosive.... especially if left to sit, it was called MD60 (Martin Donnon 60% meth)

he post on here and is a wealth of information, may be worth sending him a pm asking how safe it is.... im sure he will say not so safe (good for power though).

It's not so safe breathing the exhausted gasses from a methanol car in a dyno cell!!! Use a reperator with an organic vapor filter at minimum.

Is there a corrosion inhibitor additive available to the public yet?

I'd like to find out what fuelcontroll use in Sucrogen that makes it so less corrosive.

Justin.

Justin i am currently using "md60" and added the vp additive. about $30 a bottle.

VP M2 Additive for Methanol

M2â„¢ Upper Lube

Leaves a thin film of lubrication to protect against corrosion between races. Protects valves, guides, cylinder walls, fuel pumps, and aluminum fuel systems for methanol powered engines. Extends pump life. Virtually eliminates white powder residue from the interaction of Methanol and aluminum fittings. Allows fuel to be left in fuel lines for longer than normal. Does not alter the tune of the vehicle, nor block any fine nozzles for mechanical injection. Not recomended for use with Rotary vehicles. Can be mixed with other oils in historic motorcycles.

Reports back from most racers, especially smaller capacity engines, is decreased engine wear, especially on piston rings. Use of this additive can mean the difference between 1 engine or 3 engine overhauls in the same season. One bottle treats 200 litres of Methanol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...