Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 467
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I just make a cut in them with tin snips, then use some vice grips to tear them off, kind of "rolling" the grips to help tear the metal if you get what i mean?

They're just an interference press fit onto the hub, no need for major surgery to get them off, just bend/tear/snap them off :banana:

It can be fun getting them off - lots of twisting rolling and yanking with vise grips and bull nose pliers. I also used a hammer and chisel to clean up the last remnants off the back of the hub.

Look at the little bastard cowering in the background after I got all tony danza on its ass

post-12551-1284353144_thumb.jpg

i only remove the front stone guards, or else they would be hitting my disc :S

anyway received my pfc d-jetro in the mail today :D however im unsure if the sensors send with it are the map ones (as they look nothing like the normal ones i have seen other on the net)

dsc00059n.jpg

dsc00057cm.jpg

thanks :D i wasn't sure as they look very similar to the apexi boost gauge senders i had.

now just need to work out how to install them and off for a tune

Yeah electronic boost guages use a map sensor as well hence why they look the same - same thing with boost controllers (avc-r etc).

You just need to hook them up off a good vacuum / boost source off the intake manifold. It would be a bit different with the rb26 having individual throttle bodies - I have only ever installed map based ecu's on single throttle body systems. You would want the vacuum / boost seen after the throttle bodies.

Speak to someone who has installed d-jetro for sure!!

Yeah electronic boost guages use a map sensor as well hence why they look the same - same thing with boost controllers (avc-r etc).

You just need to hook them up off a good vacuum / boost source off the intake manifold. It would be a bit different with the rb26 having individual throttle bodies - I have only ever installed map based ecu's on single throttle body systems. You would want the vacuum / boost seen after the throttle bodies.

Speak to someone who has installed d-jetro for sure!!

Thanks did some looking looks like you need to tap some fitting onto cylinder 3 and 4 in the plenum.

So now just need to wait till i get my hks afmless pipe and blitz ebc (id3) and see it off toget a tune. Atm i increase boost to 1bar (bleed valve) and the cars feels alot better still laggy but pulls harder might just keep the n1 turbos for the moment and see what sort of times i xan get at the track

does anyone know how to determine the spring rate of a spring?

i have just purchase a set of coilovers to start off with, however they have had their springs swap for some swifts springs and the owner doesn't know the rate

Usually it is marked on the spring somewhere.

does anyone know how to determine the spring rate of a spring?

i have just purchase a set of coilovers to start off with, however they have had their springs swap for some swifts springs and the owner doesn't know the rate

Bloody easy since most of the steels used to produce these springs have very similar properties.

Try this calculator:

http://www.racingsuspensionproducts.com/spring%20rate.htm

Bloody easy since most of the steels used to produce these springs have very similar properties.

Try this calculator:

http://www.racingsuspensionproducts.com/spring%20rate.htm

thanks :geek: im hoping the spring rates aren't too crazy!

btw could someone explain to me what the helper springs do? (extra spring at the top of the normal spring)

thanks :) im hoping the spring rates aren't too crazy!

btw could someone explain to me what the helper springs do? (extra spring at the top of the normal spring)

You want crazy spring rates, the car will handle better that way

:P

Keeping the main spring captive under full droop is all they are there for.

You want crazy spring rates, the car will handle better that way

:(

Keeping the main spring captive under full droop is all they are there for.

The purpose of them varies depending on if they are helper springs or tender springs.

I'd assume being japanese they are probably only going to be a helper spring.

Article about Helper Springs vs Tender Springs

Sorry my mistake they come with Assist Springs

You want crazy spring rates, the car will handle better that way

:(

Keeping the main spring captive under full droop is all they are there for.

:(

Just because i wish to run 10/10 doesn't make them crazy spring rates, what i am worry about is that the spring rates will be in the 15 region as its not uncommon to run such rates in japan.

I understand that the general thinking is that 10/10 will be too stiff. However i have good experience with those spring rates in my r33 track car and will be testing similar rates out in the gtr. I plan to start with 6/8 combo however i need to do some reading on this Assist spring and select the correct rate for that combo. If 8/6 doesn't work i will move to 8/10 etc etc

till i find the right setup for my gtr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
    • lights are on just the one click.  
    • Absolutely matters because, while a temperature change will eventually reach a sensor at the end of a static line, the response time is far far far too slow to be useful. Might as well not have a temp gauge at all.
    • When I was eyeing off the 370GT (after deciding I didn't want to spend 30-40k+ to relive my early 20s in an R33) I thought it'd be a good project to add a turbo to it. Now that I have a 370GT, and I've had a couple of chances to open it up, I'm pretty stunned by how much power it makes 🫠 Honestly, the way the VVEL opens it up, it almost feels like there's a little turbo tucked away in there somewhere. It's like Nissan looked at VTEC and said "hold my beer" 😁 Has anyone thrown a turbo into their 370Z or 370GT? Is there a conservative boost level you can run without having to upgrade the fuel system, or are bigger injectors and a bigger pump a given?
×
×
  • Create New...