Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

back lash is how the teeth on the crown wheel and pinion come into mesh. Ummm sorry I'm having a mental blank but im pretty sure to adjust your backlash you move the crown wheel assembly in or out of mesh with the pinion

Not sure how its done on skyline diffs but

an oil change will do nothing if this is the problem

ok the back lash thing, sounds like it could be it, the front diff is a 2-way os-giken lsd so if it is backlash ( crown and pinion not meshing correctly ) does anyone know a fix for this.....

ps.. its not the normal 2-way lsd noise, I know what that is...

cheers

Ah crap i didnt know we were talking 4WD lol. But yeah it could be the way the diff was installed, maybe incorrect backlash. probably the easiest way to see is to park the car (On a hoist or pit if possible), get under it with the brakes on and try to turn the drive shafts, Then lift the front two wheels up and with the car in gear try and turn either wheel and see if there is movement in the diff yoke (or however the transfer box is connected to the front diff) and do the same with the back wheels

That might give you some clues as to where the problem is. If its your front diff backlash then with your front wheels off the ground and the car in gear you should hear/see/feel any play in the system

Ah crap i didnt know we were talking 4WD lol. But yeah it could be the way the diff was installed, maybe incorrect backlash. probably the easiest way to see is to park the car (On a hoist or pit if possible), get under it with the brakes on and try to turn the drive shafts, Then lift the front two wheels up and with the car in gear try and turn either wheel and see if there is movement in the diff yoke (or however the transfer box is connected to the front diff) and do the same with the back wheels

That might give you some clues as to where the problem is. If its your front diff backlash then with your front wheels off the ground and the car in gear you should hear/see/feel any play in the system

...

with the front wheels off the ground, you can only turn them about 50mm or so either way, so just the slack in the diffs and cv's etc I assume... does that sound normal.. maybe I should compare that with the back ??

yeah i guess hey? Can you take it to a diff/drivetrain specialist. They might be able to do a good test of everything for 20 buks or something ;)

funny I rung 4 diff workshops here in perth and not one of them has ever seen of heard of an OS-Giken front 2-way LSD, but yeah might get one of them to look at it anyway

cheers

What do you mean by 50mm?

Rotate the front tailshaft (not driveshaft) back and forth and see how much play it has. It is directly connected to the pinion so you will know if there is a backlash issue there.

Then turn the wheels back and forth to check how much play is in your spider/axle gears, as this can cause clunking too.

yeah meant with front off the ground the front wheels only turn bout 50mm back and forth, so i assume thats play in the "spider/axle gears"

I haven't tried the front tail shaft for play, but when i put gaerbox back in recently i didn't notice much play in that...

think i'll just have to take it in somewhere and get it looked at

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...