Jump to content
SAU Community

Battery Relocation Components

No Crust Racing
 Share

Recommended Posts

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
Posted

I'm going to relocate the battery to the boot and I'm wondering if anyone has used kits for this type of thing or do you all just go your own route and source parts you need.

I'm not auto electrician so I'm not fully versed on what parts are required.

As I see it, some heavy gauge cable to connect the battery to the engine bay terminals, I'd imagine some sort of heavy duty fuse for safety and I'd like to put an isolation switch in to stop the battery being slowly drained while the car sits as it's not driven regularly.

What's going to be the best way to go about this. I'm all for DIY just not sure what's required.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334147-battery-relocation-components/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

We are looking at doing this in our R32 with the cable etc from a R33. This can be easily obtained from a R33 wreck and it comes with all of the protective covering from the R33.

No.96 Community Regular

No.96

Posted
Posted

I've just finished doing this. Sprint Auto have metal battery trays that you put in the bottom of the battery box for $15.00.

The cable is only $7.50 / Metre.

I used spiral wrap around the cable to just it extra protection.

«Cyph3r» Experienced

«Cyph3r»

Posted
Posted

I did this on my S15 and in the process of doing the same on my s14 now.

Try to use a dry cell if you are mounting in the boot or inside the cabin.

If you want to do it yourself just measure up the length of cable required by running a piece of string or rope along the required path and cut it/mark it at the required length.

Go to an auto electrician or a welding shop to buy the cable depending on what gauge you need for your application.

Use a fuse as close to the battery as possible.

Run the same size earth from the battery to the body as the power cable and make sure you get a good contact.

A battery isolator switch is a good idea if you are not going to be driving the car regularly and I also got myself a battery charger that I can just leave on when I'm not driving the car.

This time I purchased a kit as I want everything to look a bit neater this time but it wasn't cheap.

Cheers

Jamie

«Cyph3r» Experienced

«Cyph3r»

Posted
Posted
I've just finished doing this. Sprint Auto have metal battery trays that you put in the bottom of the battery box for $15.00.

The cable is only $7.50 / Metre.

I used spiral wrap around the cable to just it extra protection.

Yeah, the conduit does make it look a lot neater. And if you get carried away and want to wrap it in black elec tape it almost looks factory.

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted

Not sure about the boxes - I am looking at these fused +ve terminals http://www.projecta.com.au/catalogue/cid/35/asset_id/84, then a key type kill switch for the cabin, and I need to run an external pull near the windscreen as well. Going to run an earth in the boot and one to the bay - that should have me covered.

So the general consensus is:

- 250A fuse on the +ve off the battery

- 00AWG (2/0) guage for +ve to the bay

- 4AWG earth in the boot and to the bay

Can any autoleccy's confirm this sounds right?

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

An auto sparky told me to run the earth lead from the battery to the front firewall, then from the front firewall to the engine block. This is if you have an alloy radiator, otherwise your cooling system can have some residual current flowing through it, causing electrolysis of the alloy rad.

Also if you have a normal wet battery in the boot, you either have to have it in a sealed, vented box (not a marine type battery box) or you need to have a liquid proof firewall between the boot and cabin (CAMS and DOT regulation). If you mount a wet cell battery in the cabin, then it must be in a proper sealed, plumbed battery box.

  • 2 months later...
No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've got all my gear together now and am embarking on the job but I was wondering, do I need a blue trianlge sticker on the car now? It's only club level and still street reg'd.

I grabbed an isolator that will allow remote pull to swich off but won't be connecting the remote feature straight away. Will just leave the key in the isolator.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...