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High Rpm= Spun Bearing?


gtr jet
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I know its good pricing and i know what the parts are worth, its more the labour i cant afford. Im considering pulling out the engine myself, getting them to build it and putting it back in myself to save a bit on labour.

So much to consider.

Im not actually sure what oil was in it because racepace changed it when they did the tune.

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i wouldn't start thrashing my new money pit of an engine after a thousand ks but hey thats me maybe im soft lol i give them a lil longer, have personally seen a brand new 1000km run in engine destroy itself from bearing failure, (although it was a neanderthal 5l) its run in oil was a little too thin for the thrashing it was getting..

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I know its good pricing and i know what the parts are worth, its more the labour i cant afford. Im considering pulling out the engine myself, getting them to build it and putting it back in myself to save a bit on labour.

So much to consider.

Im not actually sure what oil was in it because racepace changed it when they did the tune.

they are pretty easy to remove and strip, all the engine builders would need is the long motor that would save a heap of labor costs

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i wouldn't start thrashing my new money pit of an engine after a thousand ks but hey thats me maybe im soft lol i give them a lil longer, have personally seen a brand new 1000km run in engine destroy itself from bearing failure, (although it was a neanderthal 5l) its run in oil was a little too thin for the thrashing it was getting..

They need to be driven hard to bed the rings in...being soft on them leads to a crap ring seal.

Plus with bearing and ring quality these days they a basically "run in" 10secs after they are started.

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less than 1000kms its not even run in, what oil did you have in it when you were revving it that high?

^ um what? Motor is fine as soon as the rings are bed on the dyno.

Tune it up and off you go.

One of my motors, bed, 270rwkw tune done. Same for current motor, and countless other people i can think of.

Never a problem. None of this 1000kms business, old wives tale these days.

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Take the motor out, pull it apart and then take it to the workshop, get them to do the very important and delicate assembly, then do the rest yourself. You should be able to knock a couple of grand off the price if you do that.

Also if you use the same parts you should be able to use the same tune with just a touch up also saving maybe $500-1000 in dyno time.

have personally seen a brand new 1000km run in engine destroy itself from bearing failure, (although it was a neanderthal 5l) its run in oil was a little too thin for the thrashing it was getting..

Was that actually confirmed or did the engine just shit itself for whatever reason and someone just guessed that was the cause?

Edited by Rolls
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Was that actually confirmed or did the engine just shit itself for whatever reason and someone just guessed that was the cause?

You'd have to say things like bad quality bearings, tolerances, machine work, contamination... plenty of areas :wacko:

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I think either contamination or tolerances would be the cause of my engine failure and the engine only did about 500km before it was put on the dyno and it wasn't really babied in that time.

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Well the engine was built at home so what ever is wrong with it is most likely going to be my fault. Racepace has done nothing wrong, after the tune, when the car was running it was beautiful.

I was in the passenger seat and was watching the tacho as it came on boost in 3rd in the wet and it was around 9000rpm.

The oil pump was a brand new n1 unit so i hope that didnt fail.

It has a power fc and im not sure if it even has a rev limit. With the standard engine and ecu it would go a lil past 8000rpm but would sound like absolute shit and go nowhere but that was only tried once.

It can take only a a brief oil starvation at those revs to hot spot a bearing that will eventually fail, N1 or not. FC doesn't have any alternate maps it can kick in if it senses a problem, like some other ECU's. I'd recommend putting in a high capacity baffled sump on it when you rebuild, it's the only way you will have some insurance against oil starvations.

Hi-Octane Racing make one that has a slim profile so less chance of cracking it in our shitty roads, or just go a full dry set up, some great oz made ones and for cost of jap there are very competitive. From what I've read and heard from people it seems oil starvation on RB26's is not so an uncommon killer for stock bottom ends without some kind of extended sump when pushed hard or with g's.

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less than 1000kms its not even run in, what oil did you have in it when you were revving it that high?

well and truly run in, it would be run in after about 30 mins on a dyno.

We run-in and full tune many of our race engines and street engines in one dyno sitting (a full day), very common practice and eliminates incorrect run-in's by the customer.

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well and truly run in, it would be run in after about 30 mins on a dyno.

We run-in and full tune many of our race engines and street engines in one dyno sitting (a full day), very common practice and eliminates incorrect run-in's by the customer.

my mistake guys i dont want to argue, i just thought they need longer.. learn something every day

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as much as we dont want the engine to run with a stuffed bearing, you really need to start it up and see if it has oil pressure then turn it off straight away,

we have smashed the same 450kw engine 2 times, 1 at the drags in 4th gear across the line at 8500rpm and one doing 3rd gear burnout at 9000rpm, both were N1 oil pump failures,

had to bite the bullet and get a tomei after that.

so i wouldnt put it past a N1 oil pump failing on you but because the car was driven home im sure you would have noticed the knock then.

another possibility is after the machine work how well did you clean the block down and the head down? this is Extremely important and alot of 1st time builders over look it thinking the machine shop would have cleaned it correctly before giving it back.

when you drop the oil from the engine take a little sample and get it checked.

your much better off finding out exactly what caused it so you can prevent it from happening again.

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The oil pump was a brand new n1 unit so i hope that didnt fail.

there,s your problem. mine did the same. an n1 cant flow enough oil at 9k , it may have pressure but the flow drops and the bearing touches the carnk, game over. i went tomei.. the n1 will be ok, it just is not man enough at those revs ..sorry

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