Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From my reading the threads over the last few weeks and elsewhere:

Royal Purple Oil would be at or near he top for racing/high perfomance driving and would tend to be changed frequently.

For Normal city Highway driving and extended oil changes BP Visco 5000 at about 60% of the price would be better/ a more sensible choice.

I will probably do 10,000km oil changes with BP Visco 10w 30w depending on the type of driving and feed back here for an M35 series 1 Stagea.

if money was no object then Amsoil would work in both situations but tends to be double the price of BP Visco 5000.

On the basis of price I wont be using Amsoil .

I realise if I use the best I will be keeping my engine in better nick but I think that has been discussed in other threads. I dont want to go down that path in this thread.

I know I wont get a definite answer but is this fairly close to correct.

Edited by samuri

gulf western s6000 sougi

group 5 ester based full synthetic which is on par with motul 300v chrono

but the GW is only $60 from a distributer (call gw to find one in your area)

check out the 'goods on oils' thread in the general maintenance section

gulf western s6000 sougi

group 5 ester based full synthetic which is on par with motul 300v chrono

but the GW is only $60 from a distributer (call gw to find one in your area)

check out the 'goods on oils' thread in the general maintenance section

'goods on oils' was read thoroughly but I believe a lot of responses are from those who race and use oil for extreame race condtions rather than normal driving . They then use the oil for a short duration .

I am not so concerend about getting the individusal best oil but concerned with sticking to the post topic.

This is my second attempt to attach a pole for this thread .

Off their website:

Sougi S 6000 offers:

- Full synthetic formulation providing the ultimate engine protection

- friction modified for reduced engine wear

- Proven Field performance

- Increased horse power

- Excellent shear stability performance is maintained. and very high thermal/oxidation stability provide long fluid life.

- Suitable for vehicles using Petrol, LPG and Alcohol fuels

Seems like it's fine for ethanol or Methanol...

if money was no object then Amsoil would work in both situations but tends to be double the price of BP Visco 5000.

On the basis of price I wont be using Amsoil .

Agreed with Scotty, the Sougi S6000 is top of the list in my books.

The car feels more "together" than any other oil I have used bar the 300v (had the same "feel") and has quick rattle on cold start unlike with Redline oil.

I tried a lot of different oils early on, but used Motul 300v or Redline for the past year and a half or so (I can't understand why anyone would skimp on oil of all things!).

I did use Amsoil 10W40 but didn't feel it was any better than Mobil 1 or Shell Helix Ultra

hmm... if you must go with Amsoil you should be able to get just under 5L of Amsoil 10W40 for around $80 or less, not a steep price to pay for a grade IV oil.... although I can't imagine why you would when you can get the Sougi S6000 (Grade V oil) for around $60.

+1 to sougi

i run it in the stagea and its my daily

dunno why you wouldn't use it, its the same price as nulon syn and lasts at least twice as long (had nulon in b4 the sougi and it got noisy at about 5000 kms)

I run Royal Purple. I know a few others do too. Aprox $100 dollars from autobarn. Doesn't have to be changed more often...Although I do a change around every 5000k.

Awsome stuff...when I put it in the Stag it ran smoother and slightly quieter.

Have a look at this artical. Its old but an interesting read.

http://www.royalpurple.com.au/article_imag..._supplement.php

  • 2 weeks later...
gulf western s6000 sougi

group 5 ester based full synthetic which is on par with motul 300v chrono

but the GW is only $60 from a distributer (call gw to find one in your area)

check out the 'goods on oils' thread in the general maintenance section

I rang GW in Penrith and they want $75 for 1 bottle! Is this correct? Wondering if anyone knows of any cheaper suppliers/retailers in western Sydney, preferably Blacktown/Penrith areas

cheers

GW is in Sydney so you should be able to get it cheaper than me, I got 4 bottles for $220.

Autobarn were asking $80 a bottle.

I had to ask the guy on the phone twice, because $75 didn't sound right to me. That's directly from gulf western too. I wonder if you can buy more and get a discount?

I had to ask the guy on the phone twice, because $75 didn't sound right to me. That's directly from gulf western too. I wonder if you can buy more and get a discount?

Whilst it is a little more than what we seem to get it for in Vic... $75 for a Group V oil is bloody fantastic anyway!

Think of it this way, how would you react if you found out that your local Autobarn was selling 5L bottles of Redline 10w40 or Motul 300v Chrono at $75

EDITED :D

Edited by iamhe77
Whilst it is a little more than what we seem to get it for in Vic... $75 for a Group V oil is bloody fantastic anyway!

Think of it this way, how would you react if you found out that your local Autobarn was selling 5L bottles of Redline 10w40 or Motul 300v Chrono?

Mine does, but not at that price...

They didnt know what Sougi was. :D

if your getting it straight from gw then they are probably charging you rrp

check with a distributer, they should sell it to you at wholesale price, i.e. the price that autobarn etc pays for it

using either royal purple 5-30 or 10-40 .. 5 - 30 is slightly lifter knocky as its a bit too thin.

finding the 10-40 a better ratio.

although ive also used motul 300V competition .. around the same price $100 for 5 litres. and is slightly quieter on the lifters.

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...