Rb30 Block Modifications

[felixy69]

hi guys more questions on the rb30 again

what are some of the modifications to make the rb30 block reliable for high hp ??

i heard u have to do annular groove in the main caps and use RB26 bearings .....what does this do ?

what other tricks do i need to do ?

thank you

[Bliksem]

better oil flow for the mains... GTR's have that standard

[Dobz]

rb26 main crank journals are 2mm smaller on diameter compared to rb30 so it's anyones guess how you fit rb26 bearings in there. You don't need to do any special trickery to make rb30 blocks hold big hp except get it built properly with quality parts and a good tune.

Edited September 3, 2010 by Dobz

[Spoolup]

RB30 and RB26 main journals are the same - big ends are different

[Gerg_R31]

all rb series have the same main journals, the main journals vary

to make a rb30 bottom end reliable

ARP main stud kit

H beam rods (usually the good ones come with ARP bolts)

Balance and weight match all conrods (some call it blue printing)

other then that they are pretty strong

rb30 cranks already have been nitrided from factory, which the hardness coating is 0.010" thick if you do a 10/10 main and big end grind advised to have it re nitrided

if your running nitro or methanol or both get the piston skirts "tough coated"

[Gerg_R31]

the big end journals vary* (slight typo)

[mawzy]

Just another question to add to this, but is it worth deburring/polish the inside of the block? Like Tidy up all the casting marks etc? or is this a waste of time? I have been told it helps oil to settle in the sump quiker. Same with oil return from head, and in round the oil filter feed.

[felixy69]

according to spoolup

they paint the inside with some kind of smooth paint so that the oil slips down faster.....worth looking into !

[rockabilly]

felix, just build it mate, lol

mine is a std block not painted, spool rods, cp,s,cometic h/g arp,s acl race bearings, done 3000miles on the motor since it sucked something in and did no5 big end, of that 3000 miles over 1000 miles are on track, i ran it in for 40 miles on mineral oil then it did 8 hours on the dyno and then i took it to zolder/spa and the ring all in one weekend.. mine makes 640bhp/556lbs @ all 4 on 1.5 bar..go for it..

Edited September 6, 2010 by rockabilly

[KiwiRS4T]

Sounds like a fun weekend !!!

[STATUS]

according to spoolup

they paint the inside with some kind of smooth paint so that the oil slips down faster.....worth looking into !

old v8 trick from the 70's

class F red insulating paint, its great until it peels, but peeling is not overly common. Commercial Diesel's have come factory with this coating for decades.

heres the gear (aussie dealer) if anyone wants to use it:

http://www.ppcco.com.au/fact_sheets/pi/pi_glyptal.pdf

[Marko R1]

felix, just build it mate, lol

i agree bernie

[N1GTR]

i agree bernie

Lol, this coming from the king of asking questions hahaha

[N1GTR]

But yeah felix there are many threads on here with all info needed.

Don't overthink, quality parts and screw together-easy as

A good thread to read is MarkOs one, he went from 2.6 to 3.0 and basically kept a running journal as he went

[Marko R1]

Lol, this coming from the king of asking questions hahaha

stevo - im just extremely thorough, well, thats what i put it down to

how was sat night? i heard you went a bit soft

[FineLine]

stevo - im just extremely thorough, well, thats what i put it down to

how was sat night? i heard you went a bit soft

Waddya mean "went"

[Marko R1]

Waddya mean "went"

haha good point - new nickname for stevo 'softy'

[N1GTR]

Haha yeah right i drank every round and was there till the place closed!

[Marko R1]

Haha yeah right i drank every round and was there till the place closed!

not what paul was telling me lol

[N1GTR]

not what paul was telling me lol

If you werent so soft you wouldve been there

Paul was off his face, im surprised he remembers anything much