Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Leigh,

You and Andrew probably have the OEM boost restricter removed, which inside the hose that goes to the Boost Solenoid.

Once removed you can run a "Safe" factory boost increase, as what I have heard and read about so far.

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i hope r34 gtr turbos can run a bit more boost safer than the r33 and r32 gtr's because mine usually runs over 1bar, the highest it got to was 1.18 on the screen which was right on the edge of the screen, maximum it reads is 2.0. in psi i think its roughly 16-17psi.

Not really - they are just newer, doesnt mean they wont/cant fail in the same fashion especially considering you dont know what was going on before you got it.

too much heat = bye bye turbo.

could happen to near new turbos IMO

I know everyone will say that it is way to much boost but I have never seen an R34 including mine run less boost than that. I bought mine with only a cat back and am in fact now running less boost with the computer and full exhaust. Factory mine ran the same and I know of a few other guys telling me the same, when mine was stock it used to hit 1.18 bar as well on occasion. Now with the wolf I have managed to run a perfectly steady .9 bar.

So done stress, the R34's just run more boost than the R33 and R34. In fact it may just be coincidence for me but I have never seen a 34 do anything but run minimum 1 bar.

Not really - they are just newer, doesnt mean they wont/cant fail in the same fashion especially considering you dont know what was going on before you got it.

too much heat = bye bye turbo.

could happen to near new turbos IMO

yeah agreed, just need to save a little bit more and ill have enough for some new turbos :thumbsup:

I know everyone will say that it is way to much boost but I have never seen an R34 including mine run less boost than that. I bought mine with only a cat back and am in fact now running less boost with the computer and full exhaust. Factory mine ran the same and I know of a few other guys telling me the same, when mine was stock it used to hit 1.18 bar as well on occasion. Now with the wolf I have managed to run a perfectly steady .9 bar.

So done stress, the R34's just run more boost than the R33 and R34. In fact it may just be coincidence for me but I have never seen a 34 do anything but run minimum 1 bar.

ok thats good to hear that its not just mine then.

Geoff brought snowys old factory turbos - i think he got like 1,000kms out of them or something before they let go and took his motor with them (this is going back a few years now)

So they can indeed fail... It's just that most R34 GTR owners dont run them that high, for that long.

I think we will see more examples as time goes on of this occuring.

Geoff brought snowys old factory turbos - i think he got like 1,000kms out of them or something before they let go and took his motor with them (this is going back a few years now)

So they can indeed fail... It's just that most R34 GTR owners dont run them that high, for that long.

I think we will see more examples as time goes on of this occuring.

well it makes sence they are getting old and nothing lasts forever.

Geoff brought snowys old factory turbos - i think he got like 1,000kms out of them or something before they let go and took his motor with them (this is going back a few years now)

So they can indeed fail... It's just that most R34 GTR owners dont run them that high, for that long.

I think we will see more examples as time goes on of this occuring.

+1. How long do you run that 1bar? If you're just driving on the street it wouldnt be that long would it? If you're doing mountain runs/track, the risk just increases. Its all about whether or not you wanna take the risk.

Nobody really say you cannot run 1bar but rather its not advisable to run 1 bar because the risk or probability of the turbo blowing up increases.

Mine runs 1-1.2 bar factory with no dramas but I need a tune.

Mate you've got a NUR (according to your profile/nick). They have N1 spec turbos like mine so you're not comparing apples with apple. I'm running mine at 1.15bar with no dramas too... -.-;

with my BNR34:

Mods

-full exhaust system

-cam gears

-power fc

-kn panel filter

everything else standard, 1st dyno tune from Race Pace 280awkw (30,000km) 4 years ago. Now with (120,000km) dyno tune from Race Pace it's now 250awkw.

Not to sound rude but how did Racepace dyno your car all wheel? They only have a rear wheel dyno...so they can only generate numbers with rwkw...did they ever have a 4 wheel dyno before?..

Not to sound rude but how did Racepace dyno your car all wheel? They only have a rear wheel dyno...so they can only generate numbers with rwkw...did they ever have a 4 wheel dyno before?..

aw/rw = same shit anyway.

Trent has a rwd dyno, and when i asked him about it he said he can put a "GTR setting" on or something which puts 5% more stress on it or something to act like a AWD dyno when doing GTRs, something along those lines anyway he can probably explain it more hehe

Not to sound rude but how did Racepace dyno your car all wheel? They only have a rear wheel dyno...so they can only generate numbers with rwkw...did they ever have a 4 wheel dyno before?..

oops my bad, so how does he dyno it than? removes front drive shaft?

oops my bad, so how does he dyno it than? removes front drive shaft?

umm...yes...well thats what they did to mine when they dynoed it...they only have a rear wheel dyno...well atm they do...not sure if they had a 4 wheel one when you got yours...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...