Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^^ Exactly.

Every shop will tell you how great they are & they know what needs to be done to the head.. but how many people or workshops have the runs on the board.

I believe RAMS cylinder heads in windsor have supplied many heads for CRD's big build engines.

But im not sure who paul from Red R racing uses for porting his cylinder heads ?..but its safe to say he has more than enough experience as to exactly whats

required as far as intended horsepower goals or times on the track..and he shares his knowledge which many others are reluctant to do.

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

But im not sure who paul from Red R racing uses for porting his cylinder heads ?..but its safe to say he has more than enough experience as to exactly whats

required as far as intended horsepower goals or times on the track..and he shares his knowledge which many others are reluctant to do.

head porting is done in house, and yes soon to have cnc porting as well. 1500hp engines need a well sorted head and paul does just that he gives you what you

want and some.

Edited by boostn32
i would cut the middle man out and go straight to the head guy

10%+some profit is alot of money when your taking a 7k head

If the head guy is trying to run a respectable business he would not build/port a head and for an individual and undercut another person trying to run a business!

Assuming 10% gst +10% profit

so to ship a head to a head dude somewhere = $1400

i aint no rocket scientist but i recon i can box up a head ship it to a head dude with 20 + year experience for 50 bux

head dude still charges you the same, he still has the same results on paper

respectable business.... 80% people out there pay the head dude once cnc map their work then pump em out just tiding up the loose ends that the cnc cant reach..and claim the work as their own and charge 50 bux less

If the head guy is trying to run a respectable business he would not build/port a head and for an individual and undercut another person trying to run a business!

A lot of companies outsource work to others, if you're the machine shop, why would you not accept their work? You're just the machinist doing the machine work for a customer, if those customers turn around and say its their own work then good for them, that doesnt mean that going direct to the machinist is wrong.

If the head guy is trying to run a respectable business he would not build/port a head and for an individual and undercut another person trying to run a business!

99% are assemblers and get head work outsourced, you get the head done direct you save alot. Handfuls of big name engine builders all outsource to different head companies.

Head porting is a real art, don't go anywhere that can't show you proven results on a dyno.

The Guys down at Envy are doing a new head cutting method on all there heads. Its called DIGIPORTING. They are running a XR6T with one of their heads and it makes over 1100hp ATW along with a set of Platinum Race Cams and are only running it at 28psi of boost.They also have several other cars with great resaults with the same equipment.

Have a look at this earlier GTR they have done http://www.youtube.com/user/EnvyDyno#p/u/52/-THGNYiouWs

Have a look at the XR6T on this site as well its bull S##t.

Fill free to call Herman at Envy on: (02) 9907 4144 :(

A lot of companies outsource work to others, if you're the machine shop, why would you not accept their work? You're just the machinist doing the machine work for a customer, if those customers turn around and say its their own work then good for them, that doesnt mean that going direct to the machinist is wrong.

If the machinist accepts the work based it is definitely wrong mate, think about it.

Anyway, what is DIGIPORTING???

If the machinist accepts the work based it is definitely wrong mate, think about it.

Haha, ok, I'm "thinking about it" and as any one coming to a logical conclusion will come to, here's the conclusion;

Unless there's a contract in place for the machinist to not replicate a certain port job, he can do as many of those port jobs as he likes.

Its like I call up a local machine shop and get them to port a head. I can try and call it a steve ported head, but its not. It's someone elses work with a different label.

If one company though, goes and tests a heap of heads, then gets one digitised and agrees with the machine shop that only them are allowed to order that head, then the machinist sells that port job openly, that's of course very wrong.

It is only wrong if they are making a laser cad design of the head then replicating it without paying fees or at least asking that it is wrong. People resell others work all the time eg engine builders often don't disclose what parts they are using, they however didn't cast the pistons etc.

If one company though, goes and tests a heap of heads, then gets one digitised and agrees with the machine shop that only them are allowed to order that head, then the machinist sells that port job openly, that's of course very wrong.

I agree 100% and that was the point I was trying to make :D

Back OT

If the machinist accepts the work based it is definitely wrong mate, think about it.

Anyway, what is DIGIPORTING???

ah nice quest, i dont know the answer to that one but it has somthing to do with digitially matching the heads to the block and chambers. What ever it is it looks to work well.

^^^ What ??...

Sounds like magic beans..

A good explanation would be nice...looking at their website all i see is two guys attacking a cylinder head at the same time with die grinders. :whistling:

^^^ What ??...

Sounds like magic beans..

A good explanation would be nice...looking at their website all i see is two guys attacking a cylinder head at the same time with die grinders. :P

The power and time of there falcon tell the story boys......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...