Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

maybe give him the list of what we have done first and the result's we are getting then let him have a good old think. Plenum manifold would be nice though depending on the design!

how bout you give me a list of what you ( collective ) have done and ill forward it on , and with R.I.P.S designes they are always sexy and are great qaulity with good results

Edited by Sidius
  • Replies 270
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

how bout you give me a list of what you ( collective ) have done and ill forward it on , and with R.I.P.S designes they are always sexy and are great qaulity with good results

PM sent

Can they do a Manual conversion kit for a GTR box to be fitted into an M35? :)

Or they could just copy our work... Why would I want to send them pics of my parts to produce?

+1.....that's....this what we need!....bell housing and manual conversion kit's!.....more so than any of the other stuff

  • 1 month later...

who's the man to speak to about dump pipes ??? I rang up Liverpool exhausts but they're a bloody rip off!!!

Hey, Dont think i am going to get these done anytime soon. i got all the parts to do the job.. but my mate (the fabricator) wont help me, and keeps ignoring it.

Might be best to talk to scotty.. or go see Westside @ Padstow..(02) 9773 7244 that was the place that made the last lot.. however the guy who made them left there..

Liverpools was a split dump design, and was rather long wasnt quiet stock replacement style.. i think they may get you to buy a cat at the same time too...

he was charging 800 or so tho yeah?

Hey, Dont think i am going to get these done anytime soon. i got all the parts to do the job.. but my mate (the fabricator) wont help me, and keeps ignoring it.

Might be best to talk to scotty.. or go see Westside @ Padstow..(02) 9773 7244 that was the place that made the last lot.. however the guy who made them left there..

Liverpools was a split dump design, and was rather long wasnt quiet stock replacement style.. i think they may get you to buy a cat at the same time too...

he was charging 800 or so tho yeah?

PM sent.

Might be best to talk to scotty..

yeah Jetwreck told me to PM scott but he hasnt gotten back to me yet, always good to shop around tho :)

Westside @ Padstow..(02) 9773 7244

cheers :)

Liverpools was a split dump design, and was rather long wasnt quiet stock replacement style.. i think they may get you to buy a cat at the same time too...

he was charging 800 or so tho yeah

unfitted was $600. i asked for a direct replacement but not sure if thats what they were talking about

Edited by WAGON_BOY

Which Scott were you PMing? I don't have any messages... :no:

I can make you one of these in full stainless, with factory flange and o2 positions, 2000 degree ceramic wrap, stainless lower bolts and a lower flange gasket for $450 plus shipping. You will need to shorten the lower turbo studs or replace them with bolts. :thumbsup:

post-63525-0-46632200-1300694443_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-14585300-1300694692_thumb.jpg

Which Scott were you PMing? I don't have any messages... :no:

I can make you one of these in full stainless, with factory flange and o2 positions, 2000 degree ceramic wrap, stainless lower bolts and a lower flange gasket for $450 plus shipping. You will need to shorten the lower turbo studs or replace them with bolts. :thumbsup:

yeah i PM'ed the wrong scott LOL (not enough info given)

is wrapping it alright or is it better to get the inside coated ???

Edited by WAGON_BOY

Its stainless, it will never rust. The only reason to coat it (bloody expensive) is to stop the heat which a sticky shield for the body and ceramic exhaust wrap do best. The dump passes very close to the firewall (10 or 15mm at one point) so heat wrapping is mandatory to stop the complaints from the missus. >_<

i dont have that problem no missus to winge about me wasting money on cars HEHE

ATM!!!!.....you've only just bought this car though....my wife never winged before this car either!....lol....and yes as Aaron said LB!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...