Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Before the keyboard warriors see this and have a fit yes I've searched. Cry somewhere else.

Brief overview of symptoms:

- Fuel pump makes loud noises

- Car suddenly shut down after running smoothly

- Won't start

- Eventually got it started but hard to keep running

- Revs die with throttle

- Car runs rough and has slight back fire

- RAA dude thinks it's AFM problem

Mods:

GTR fuel pump

HKS Pod filter

3.5" exhaust

12 psi

Book:

I drove to my mates house (about a 20min drive) car was being babied as usual and was running smoothly the whole trip, got to my mates place the fuel pump started making some loud weird noises like squealing, gurgling, and just before the car shut off it sounded like it sucked in a heap of air. I tried to start the car again but nothing, no pumping from fuel pump and no attempt to fire up. I first thought the car ran out of fuel but still had just under ¼ tank left. 2nd thought was maybe fuel pump died…

Let the car sit for a about 10 mins, try to start the car again this time I could hear the fuel pump nosily pumping, crank it a few times with/without throttle and doesn't start. I leave it for a few hours thinking maybe an overheated fuel pump.

Put in 11L of PULP.

Crank the car for awhile, eventually get it started keeping it alive with throttle, revs just keep trying to die, it runs rough and has slight back fire.. Eventually the revs just drop even with throttle and then shuts down. Go through the same process a few times, thought when first shut maybe the pump picked up some dregs in the tank or air, but after running for about 10 mins I though it should have cleared by then.

Checked under hood if things are all plugged in/ secured properly, all look fine.

Called the RAA

An hour later,

The dude looks under bonnet and checks if things are all plugged in/ secured properly and intercooler piping, all good. Couldn't get it started.

His conclusion, not coil packs, not fuel pump but most likely AFM.

What do you guys think???

Anyone got a good AFM I could try?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337474-r32-gts-t-skyline-shite-itself/
Share on other sites

My guess would be fuel pump/fuel pressure. If the pump itself hasn't died, theres still alot of things that could have gone wrong with it to cause this. I.e. the gauge is faulty, pump runs dry and dies/won't supply fuel (especially with the noise you described), rubber hose that connects the pump to the bracket split/disconnected, fuel sock sucks up muck with the near empty tank and won't let any more fuel through (had a VR Commodore do this just last week actually and did the same thing, and no it's not a fair comparison), reg/injectors blocked etc. But most of this would happen over a period of time, not instantly.

1. Get a gauge and check what fuel pressure/flow you have.

2. If you disconnect the AFM, the computer will go into limp home mode, and it "should" start, or at least change the way it starts/runs and help with diagnosing it.

This is the first time you've had trouble with the car?

+1 for being fuel related. the fuel pump making noises is a good clue to that. the fuel pump won't start making funny noises if it is something to do with the AFM as the pump would just keep on doing it's thing.

so as people have suggested, check fuel pressure, check fuel pump and possibly replace fuel filter.

fuel pressure issue could be caused by either dodgy fuel pump or dodgy fuel pressure reg, or possibly even blocked fuel filter.

  • 1 month later...

Deff not AFM.

Just wondering if the R32 has 1 or two fuel filters? I found one under the bonnet under the plenum area... but looks like there is another fuel line but can't seem to find the filter? Anyone know?

Cheers

  • 1 month later...

Had a bit of time to check a few more things the other day..

Lifted the hood, had a quick look for anything unpluged or any corrosion, didn't find any.

Did an ECU check, all was good.

Unhooked the hose from the fuel rail and heaps of fuel flows out (filled 2 ltr bottle quickly) from just the ignition on, if hold thumb on the end of the hose quite tight, it stops the flow.

I think fuel is getting in, when trying to start I also pumped the accelerator a few times and it blew a very fine puff of black smoke and had a strong smell of fuel.

Took coil packs off and checked spark plugs, there is unburnt fuel on them and black (plugs are fairly new).

Edited by Sports Crazy

sounds like the fuel pump is ok. the turning it over, etc may have fouled your plugs. try a new set of plugs and see what happens. doesn't explain the sudden cutting out, but may explain the running rough.

if it still runs like arse with the new plugs then i would start looking closer at AFM and injectors and possibly coils and ignitor.

Had a bit of time to check a few more things the other day..

Lifted the hood, had a quick look for anything unpluged or any corrosion, didn't find any.

Did an ECU check, all was good.

Unhooked the hose from the fuel rail and heaps of fuel flows out (filled 2 ltr bottle quickly) from just the ignition on, if hold thumb on the end of the hose quite tight, it stops the flow.

I think fuel is getting in, when trying to start I also pumped the accelerator a few times and it blew a very fine puff of black smoke and had a strong smell of fuel.

Took coil packs off and checked spark plugs, there is unburnt fuel on them and black (plugs are fairly new).

You have flow but not pressure, ignition on the pump should supply 70+psi if the hose is completely blocked off. I'd still be looking at a fuel pump issue. Get a gauge, it's an EFI system not a 253 with a carby...

flow and pressure are essentially the same thing. if it was able to fill up a 2L bottle quickly then it obviously has decent flow and pressure, and if you have to hold your finger over the end tightly to stop the flow then it obviously still has decent pumping pressure. enough at least to start.

Deff not AFM.

Just wondering if the R32 has 1 or two fuel filters? I found one under the bonnet under the plenum area... but looks like there is another fuel line but can't seem to find the filter? Anyone know?

Cheers

two if you count the sock on the pump. the other one is on the strut tower drivers side.

when I tore mine down and pulled the pump the sock was FULL of crap and the pump itself was making horrible noises.

look at both.

flow and pressure are essentially the same thing. if it was able to fill up a 2L bottle quickly then it obviously has decent flow and pressure, and if you have to hold your finger over the end tightly to stop the flow then it obviously still has decent pumping pressure. enough at least to start.

not really. it is was running properly then you should not be able to hold your thumb over it. by rights the pressure should push your thumb off the line. opearting pressure should be 35-40PSIG.

not really. it is was running properly then you should not be able to hold your thumb over it. by rights the pressure should push your thumb off the line. opearting pressure should be 35-40PSIG.

+1

Pressure is proportional to flow and restriction, the pump might be able to push the fuel out with no load, but once the car tries to start the pump has to keep pressure up to the injectors to allow them to spray properly. Get, a, gauge.

As I said before, had a VR commodore with the same symptoms, ran like crap hard to start etc. Fuel would come out if you had the line disconnected, but once the gauge was connected in line and the car running, the pressure dropped off till the car stalled after a few seconds. Ended up being the fuel sock on the pump. New pump and all good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...