Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i got the letter in the mail and now im starting to wonder if its worth my time to go through the process or just strip out my car.

ive been reading some conflicting information on it and so far ive got the following questions.. if anyone could help it would be great ;)

1. which cat? i spoke to one of the workshops and they said any standard cat. it doesnt need to be nissan but it just cant be anything hi-flowed.

2. ive got a front mount. ive also read that as long as your emissions comply then they wont send you to the EPA because of a front mount. if i get rejected because of my front mount i think ill just strip it. ive got a front facing plenum and it will be just too much of a hassle to get it back to the side mount.

3. do i need to replace the whole exhaust? or can i just make my exhaust quieter by adding a muffler?

i tested my current exhaust and it sits at 89-90db @ 4800rpm. i did it with an iphone app so i doubt its right, but its supposed to be accurate to 2db. either way i'll be making it quieter, i just want to know if thats okay or if it NEEDS to be standard.

4. if i get an engineer certificate for the front mount, plenum and fixed exhaust, does anyone know if it will make a difference?

5. whats a good AFR to send the car in with? and timing?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338654-another-decc-thread/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

1. I reckon they would pass any stock-looking cat, I think many people have passed with one of those magnaflow cats as well? pretty sure it also needs one of those bungs in it for that exhaust temp sensor that hangs near it

3. just has to pass the volume test - 90db @ 4800rpm, at 1 meter measured diagonally from the rear muffler. doesn't have to be the factory catback

You need to have all emission gear functioning correctly

You will have to refit your side mount intercooler

You need a cat with nissan stamped on it.

The exhaust doesn't need to be stock it just needs to pass the noise limit.

What will happen is the workshop will take photos and do a noise test

Then they will send the results to the EPA.

If the EPA is satisfied that that car has not been Tampered with they will send you a letter of compliance.

If not they will call you in for a full emissions test.

you can pass with a front mount but not 100% about the plenum.

any cat will do as long as it isnt hi flowed.

go n get a 2 1/2" exhaust made or try n borrow a stock one.

hide boost controller and any other controller you have

u need factory air box and snorkel

carbon canister

thats what i remember from when i went thru it a couple years back

you can pass all of it if you get a tune and a cat to pass emissions and put all your emission control stuff on etc, but that a few grand down the track including engineers cert.

you'd need to pass the im240 emissions test if you were to get an engineers cert anyway

its gotten tougher

they wont pass intercoolers that aren't stock, you need all the factory emission control items fitted and operating

we've been doing a lot of this stuff lately

so we pretty much know exactly what has to be done to pass the car first time every time

Joe did you get stopped and get told to expect the letter or was it a random one in the mail?

i got stopped and defected a few weeks ago mate. worst thing is i was expecting it in the mail!

If the car passes the IM240 with a 5 inch cat, intercooler, FF plenum etc then what is the big deal? A pass is a pass regardless of what is on the car?

thats right, i did a bit of calling around and one of the workshops said that if you go to the IM240 test first with an intercooler and passed, he can take a copy and send that off to the DECC and that should be the end of it. the key word there is should.. its not guaranteed.

im going to give that one a go.

i got stopped and defected a few weeks ago mate. worst thing is i was expecting it in the mail!

thats right, i did a bit of calling around and one of the workshops said that if you go to the IM240 test first with an intercooler and passed, he can take a copy and send that off to the DECC and that should be the end of it. the key word there is should.. its not guaranteed.

im going to give that one a go.

that sucks

might be worth talking yavus, i belive he worked in emissions testing for a while

i got stopped and defected a few weeks ago mate. worst thing is i was expecting it in the mail!

thats right, i did a bit of calling around and one of the workshops said that if you go to the IM240 test first with an intercooler and passed, he can take a copy and send that off to the DECC and that should be the end of it. the key word there is should.. its not guaranteed.

im going to give that one a go.

If it passes, and you send it off, the only thing they can do from there, is invite you into the DECC stations and do another IM240. When you pass again, you'll be all good.

that sucks

might be worth talking yavus, i belive he worked in emissions testing for a while

yeah i might give him a ring if i fail the IM240 test with my home-job tune.

If it passes, and you send it off, the only thing they can do from there, is invite you into the DECC stations and do another IM240. When you pass again, you'll be all good.

yeah thats the worst case scenario, i plan on getting all the parts swapped over in a week - i'll see if i can make it to the IM240 test in time before my inspection date.

Im going through this process at the moment.

Ill have an engineers cert and a pass on an IM240 test. Cant see why i wont pass.

from what i gathered, as long as you can prove that you pass the IM240 test and pass the DECC noise test then you should be fine - just keep the car the way it was at the IM240 test till you get a response from the DECC. my only concern after all of this is to get all of my aftermarket gear engineered - i dont want to go through this again. sucky thing is, the car is worth jack all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...