Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, as most of you know I am new to Sydney. My car is in dire need of a tune as it is still running the base Apexi program since rebuild. I was interested in peoples experiences with the different tunning shops Sydney has to offer. I have booked in at UAS for a mixture check ,but, have been put back by the $80 fee(some $30) more than Adelaide, and more expensive doesn't always mean better. I previouly did most of my tuning my self with a wide band sensor and meter. I don't know if any of the shops here are as trusting in adelaide and would lend one out. Sure does save alot of money(6 hours of my own road time and half an hour on the dyno). I think the end result comes out alot better as part throttle mapping can only be done properly on the road.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33875-best-dyno-tuners/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

With tuning you really do pay for what you get. CRD in Silverwater, Jim in particular has a reputation as being one of the best tuners around.

Granted their $600 odd charge for a comprehensive dyno tune is above what other places will charge, but ultimately the tune will make or break the car so im my eyes its money well spent.

Ben at UAS is also good with power FC's and should be able to sort you out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33875-best-dyno-tuners/#findComment-679097
Share on other sites

With tuning you really do pay for what you get. CRD in Silverwater, Jim in particular has a reputation as being one of the best tuners around.

Granted their $600 odd charge for a comprehensive dyno tune is above what other places will charge, but ultimately the tune will make or break the car so im my eyes its money well spent.

Ben at UAS is also good with power FC's and should be able to sort you out.

I was a beleiver in "u get what you pay for " to ,but, myself and a dozen others from Adelaide have had issues with a certain shop who has charged for five hours work only to really spend an hour and a half. To make matters worse there have been issues with overly advanced mapping causing detonation and even cracked ring lans. I had my car tuned and rang back fifteen mintues later because it was detonating at 5000rpm. i was told not to come back in as they didn't have time to re-map. "Just turn the cam sensor back a little, it won't hurt any power they said"

The best tuner I had didn't even work at a dyno equipped shop and charged half as much.(hired dyno time). I have seen countless people throw good money away from not knowing any better. Having rebuilt my own engine, nothing p's me off more to be feed :bs!: to part with ur hard earned cash.

I have also heard CRD are very good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33875-best-dyno-tuners/#findComment-679155
Share on other sites

A friend was recently charged $750 for a CRD powerfc tune, however, i cannot provide you the full details on what was done, to the best of my knowledge it was just a tune.

On the weekend I was provided with a PowerFC tune by the Hitman. It was a road tune using a wide band a/f sensor and my hand controller.

I'm very pleased with Mat's tune. I have noticeable performance increases throughout the rev range and within every gear. Some comments were made on my previous tune and im sure they were dealt with and rectified where necessary. I still have some detonation which i will hopefully have sorted shortly.

Mat had a laptop with PowerFC software but unfortunately we couldn't get it to talk to the R34 PowerFC. Mat also personally owns an R33 GTSt.

Mat usually charges $300 for a road tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33875-best-dyno-tuners/#findComment-679221
Share on other sites

I haven't had my own car tuned and im not aware of anyone that has but im happy with UniGroup's (www.unigroup.com.au) attitude and expertise towards tuning.

I'd happily drop in and have a talk with them when I get my PowerFC.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33875-best-dyno-tuners/#findComment-679240
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

hey boostd i got a mate at C and V performance, they do a really good tune if you like, they keep my car in tune when i got racing and was impressed with what the can do.

also croydon austosports do a whole tune for about 800, but that means when it gets off the dyno your car will be a weapon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33875-best-dyno-tuners/#findComment-850832
Share on other sites

has anyone used hitman since he moved into the workshop at moorebank? do they have a 4WD dyno and does he charge more now? (of course after dyno time is considered)

Nope! its only a rear wheel drive dyno! Dunno if he charges extra...possibly a little bit more ontop of his base $300...

Hes also on these forums - Hitman...so can always PM him :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33875-best-dyno-tuners/#findComment-856546
Share on other sites

When I'm not doing it, my car is tuned exclusively by Unigroup Engineering.

www.unigroup.com.au

Yavuz and Valent are very communicative guys and have tuned some very very fast and big dollar cars that are still running hard.

I cannot speak highly enough of their efforts in correcting my tune on the pfc. Less ignition advance, more fuel, same power. They are also happy to tell you exactly what they're doing as they do it which helps you stay in the loop.

I must have picked their brains 20 times since first going there, (phone, email etc) and have found them more than happy to chat.

Yavuz also operates one of the dynos for Dyno Dynamics at Summernats. Expert with the Power FC and how it should be tuned for our cars and your application.

Adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33875-best-dyno-tuners/#findComment-856626
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...