Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thinking of getting some cam gears but don't know which brand to go for. You can get Tomei's for around $400 or you can get ebay specials from as low as $130 a pair.

My experience with cheaper brands gears on my old 4age where not the greatest, they were Fidanza and the color faded after a few months.

Is there any cheaper brands that are good? Or should I just cough up the dough and buy the real deal?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338882-what-brand-cams-gears-to-buy/
Share on other sites

cheaper gears are fine - generally though just change the bolts out for better quality ones.

cam gear cover sits over them, so who cares what they look like? :D

You can even have stock gears modified for around the price of ebay ones

personally a cam gear i something that i would never cheap out on... they can slip and you want to be sure that the correct materials have been used in manufacture.... which is something china can never offer.

fwiw i run greddy

cheaper gears are fine - generally though just change the bolts out for better quality ones.

cam gear cover sits over them, so who cares what they look like? :D

You can even have stock gears modified for around the price of ebay ones

:D

personally a cam gear i something that i would never cheap out on... they can slip and you want to be sure that the correct materials have been used in manufacture.... which is something china can never offer.

fwiw i run greddy

Hence i said change the bolts - they are the only downside and can be fixed up for $15 or less, $200+ cheaper than the jap items :D

Racepace mod stock gears into adjustables, just use good bolts and tahts that!

yeh.... i'd be happy to use a race pace modded stock gear, but not a china one.... who knows what density the metal is, if it gives even a tiny bit, then BAM

unless it's for looks... then it's HKS all the way :D

Ok I'll look into the GCG ones.

Would 3 bolts be enough to hold them? A mate at work said to not buy ones with 3 holes like the HKS (GCG are the same I think) ones as they tend to slip. But if you lock tight them they shouldn't come loose.

Edited by eightsixboy
Greddy cam gears here...nothing but jap touches my rb26, sometimesthe cheaper ones have the advance and retard markings the wrong way around

yeah i was fan but they have discontinued some of the range :) like sr's are no more...

swapping the bolts out is a fix, but that doesn't help if the threads are sloppy or the material is soft around the thread area, but you can get around it with loctite.

But a smashed motor is way more costly than the $200-300 your trying to save, so a quality item is cheap insurance in some ways.

swapping the bolts out is a fix, but that doesn't help if the threads are sloppy or the material is soft around the thread area, but you can get around it with loctite.

But a smashed motor is way more costly than the $200-300 your trying to save, so a quality item is cheap insurance in some ways.

this

LOL @ all the people saying only buy jap ones, when up until the latest HKS cam gears were renown for slipping and the tooth material wearing. From what i have seen the outers on most of the cheaper gears are steel, and 5 bolts, just the qualtiy of the capscrews are poor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...