Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thinking of getting some cam gears but don't know which brand to go for. You can get Tomei's for around $400 or you can get ebay specials from as low as $130 a pair.

My experience with cheaper brands gears on my old 4age where not the greatest, they were Fidanza and the color faded after a few months.

Is there any cheaper brands that are good? Or should I just cough up the dough and buy the real deal?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338882-what-brand-cams-gears-to-buy/
Share on other sites

cheaper gears are fine - generally though just change the bolts out for better quality ones.

cam gear cover sits over them, so who cares what they look like? :D

You can even have stock gears modified for around the price of ebay ones

personally a cam gear i something that i would never cheap out on... they can slip and you want to be sure that the correct materials have been used in manufacture.... which is something china can never offer.

fwiw i run greddy

cheaper gears are fine - generally though just change the bolts out for better quality ones.

cam gear cover sits over them, so who cares what they look like? :D

You can even have stock gears modified for around the price of ebay ones

:D

personally a cam gear i something that i would never cheap out on... they can slip and you want to be sure that the correct materials have been used in manufacture.... which is something china can never offer.

fwiw i run greddy

Hence i said change the bolts - they are the only downside and can be fixed up for $15 or less, $200+ cheaper than the jap items :D

Racepace mod stock gears into adjustables, just use good bolts and tahts that!

yeh.... i'd be happy to use a race pace modded stock gear, but not a china one.... who knows what density the metal is, if it gives even a tiny bit, then BAM

unless it's for looks... then it's HKS all the way :D

Ok I'll look into the GCG ones.

Would 3 bolts be enough to hold them? A mate at work said to not buy ones with 3 holes like the HKS (GCG are the same I think) ones as they tend to slip. But if you lock tight them they shouldn't come loose.

Edited by eightsixboy
Greddy cam gears here...nothing but jap touches my rb26, sometimesthe cheaper ones have the advance and retard markings the wrong way around

yeah i was fan but they have discontinued some of the range :) like sr's are no more...

swapping the bolts out is a fix, but that doesn't help if the threads are sloppy or the material is soft around the thread area, but you can get around it with loctite.

But a smashed motor is way more costly than the $200-300 your trying to save, so a quality item is cheap insurance in some ways.

swapping the bolts out is a fix, but that doesn't help if the threads are sloppy or the material is soft around the thread area, but you can get around it with loctite.

But a smashed motor is way more costly than the $200-300 your trying to save, so a quality item is cheap insurance in some ways.

this

LOL @ all the people saying only buy jap ones, when up until the latest HKS cam gears were renown for slipping and the tooth material wearing. From what i have seen the outers on most of the cheaper gears are steel, and 5 bolts, just the qualtiy of the capscrews are poor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...