Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would think so- they are fairly soft in that area. I have worked out that the only way to raise one is via the subframes. otherwise you risk crushing the sills. somthing that I'm NOT a fan of. (esp after paying for new ones!) (still want that ABS unit btw.)

Awesome work, it's gonna be mint when you're done!

Can you shed some light on how you removed the rear screen - I'm going to have to do mine in the near future and I really don't want to shatter it!

Can you shed some light on how you removed the rear screen - I'm going to have to do mine in the near future and I really don't want to shatter it!

yep - stanley knife and a LOT of cutting. short of it is this:

remove all trim - toss in bin - its useless after you rip it off. cut around outside glass with knife and remove all the sealant as you go. do the same from the inside and give it a push at various points. it is tempered glass so it will take some force before it explodes. from there it simply falls out.

front is the same but it wil crack a lot easier.

$578 - cover only. so every other bit that is required costs extra. fine with me as I wish to doe the entire front of it new anyway. the only scary bits of it are the duct in the passenger corner and the reo bar. both of those are silly prices.

ok - got a call from nissan today - front bumper cover has arrived. I'll pick that up in a few days - I have no idea where I am going to store it though as the box for it is fairly big.

other items I have tracking numbers for ex japan (the steel brace for teh strut tower to dody and the charcoal canister mount) and they should be here in a day or so.

few more images :whistling:

154497_1750530726318_1330376598_31936445_1899255_n.jpg

New outer sill $300. the other one is roughly the same cost.

154165_1750530966324_1330376598_31936446_618697_n.jpg

close up showing part number

76669_1750531126328_1330376598_31936447_4364967_n.jpg

old engine partially out. something was holding it in place at the rear. to get it out of the crossmember and off the front right shaft required partial removal of the drivers front suspension. seems to be the same idea as a 4wd subaru.

149248_1750529846296_1330376598_31936439_1603644_n.jpg

a picture says a thousand words. thats where I left it sitting when I left today. I'll drain the oil out of it and drop the sump off,crank pulley off and flywheel off and backing plate off. the rest (unless someone wants it) is going to the scrap metal yard. its of no use to me.

few more shots (3 different angles)

76693_1753871369832_1330376598_31942954_7120256_n.jpg

left side shot - I'm pulling EVERYTHING out of the engine bay so it can be cleaned and prepped for paint/repairs.

156003_1753871609838_1330376598_31942955_3950392_n.jpg

Front on shot. lower support (on crossmember behind lower radiator support) is bent a fraction. I'm going to take a chain hoist to this and straighten it. it looks as if its clipped a tree trunk at some point pushing it up/back. there are two PS line holders on there that are non existent as well.

76536_1753871769842_1330376598_31942956_6882874_n.jpg

Right side shot. most of the power steer lines are bent and whilst still useable I'm probably going to replace them IF they are still available.

hopefully before Christmas the car will be ready for the panel shop to take over. with most of the metal work here and waiting to go on I figure it will be close.

I still need a set of GTR guards though.

awesome stuff mate. I know how much work is involved in striping a engine bay never alone a hole car and than rebuild it. All the blood sweet and tears will be worth it in the long run.

for those that think brake/PS lines are cheap - think again..

this is the parts list for the PSteer pipes and brake tubing. all of which appear to be available.

there are $2k of PS lines in the front area!

the brake tubing is a fair bit cheaper..

P_STEER_LINES_PN_S.pdf

ordered a lot of small clips today from japan. most of the line clips are hard and decayed due to age so those are underway. reasonably cheap so they got mixed in with a customer order as it was easier to source them that way.

as it sits now there is NOTHING in the engine bay. I spent most of tonight removing the brake/hicas/attessa lines from under the car. these are in perfect order and pretty much just need a clean.

spoke to the panel shop today as well. they are busy till after christmas so it looks like I spend a bit more time on it cleaning and stripping.

car is barely a rolling shell. I want to leave the suspension under it for as long as possible (or until the paint shop frees up.)

awesome stuff mate. I know how much work is involved in striping a engine bay never alone a hole car and than rebuild it. All the blood sweet and tears will be worth it in the long run.

its not the first car that I have reworked but it IS one of the bigger jobs I have tackled over the last 22 yrs of owning a car.

given the age of this thing (and since I spent most of tonight on my back under it) its not in too bad a shape.

I did find a packet of jap smokes though. when I was pulling the attessa bottle out of the boot I found a big pile of junk under it inc said jap smokes. all of that => bin.

spoke to a mate of mine in osaka yesterday, hes found me a full front end off a Vspec. whilst not cheap its in decent nick and will save me a bit of money over new items.

also picked up my other sills yesterday as well.

few more images:

163483_1768839784033_1330376598_31972558_1343322_n.jpg

mate of mine from osaka was in town and dropped these off. I'm still missing the front grille (he has it somewhere.) but its getting there.all of this is mocked up for the shots.

lights are the same as my existing ones but in better condition. (mine are for sale btw.) the indicators were a decent price and in much better condition that what I started with so they stay and the others go to the bin sans wiring.

156297_1768840264045_1330376598_31972561_3703527_n.jpg

other side. again its simply sitting there.

one hting that did get taken out after that was the passenger quarter glass. that came out in jsut under 10 minutes with a knife. figure it was original as there was not a lot of sealant under it and that helped a fair bit as it simply popped out. once it was cut halfway loose.

  • 2 weeks later...

let the chemcial burns begin..

started paint stripping today and it will be an ongoing thing until I get it all off. I'm using a razor blade scraper, industrial paint stripper,thinners and metho to clean these. figure there is at least 5-6 weeks of work here stripping this paint off. one side (drv side) of this car I figure will have a lot more pain on it than the other.

165133_1782649849276_1330376598_32001226_8027211_n.jpg

2 passes of stripper. this is going to be a fun/tedious job...

163648_1782649569269_1330376598_32001224_7252332_n.jpg

this is 1/2 done. there are at least 8-10 coats of pain on this piece.

this image is the result of 4 passes with a rather industrial paint stripper. I still have the other areas on the boot lid to do.

148231_1782768572244_1330376598_32001706_6297167_n.jpg

fully stripped boot lid - 7 passes of stripper later..

163107_1782768412240_1330376598_32001705_3253922_n.jpg

that wing is next. already tried the stripper on the underside of it - no damage to it so away we go with a paintbrush over the next few nights.

156962_1782768692247_1330376598_32001707_7872625_n.jpg

sunroof area. this was a rust bubble covered with paint. figured I would see how bad the rust was and make the decision wheater or not to take a dremel to it.

165305_1782768812250_1330376598_32001708_1186352_n.jpg

decision made. a quick push on it and it pushed through.

now its a 200mm x 100mm cut/brass and fill back in job.

whilst I CAN do it I'll leave this for the body guy to fix

the white stuff is body filler from a previous attempt at fixing it.

my guess is this was done when the car came into the country about 2000 or so.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...