Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

are you talking about the small vacuum hose attached to the standard bov? This is the vacuum hose which opens the BOV. By blocking it off, you will be stopping the BOV opening and hence will result in fluttering. Although not sure what damage it could cause? Wouldnt be any different from running with no bov i reckon... Someone confirm this.

actually it's the opposite...without the vacuum feed the BOVs will always be open so it will never boost.

unless OP means...what if I do all that because I am running some other BOV system...in which case just drop off the vacuum line so there is no leak and off you go!

it runs from the intake manifold to the blow off valve, right? that is the intake's way of telling the blow off valve when shit's getting serious and to remain closed.

if you unplug that line i would guess whenever you achieve boost you will hear the bov whistling and releasing your hard earned boost.

don't know how much you know about turbos and how the whole system works but i would also say the wastegate might open a bit later due to the lower pressures in your intake piping from the bov leak. if this happened, your turbo would spool harder so i wouldn't suggest it. you don't know when a turbo will let go.

treat it like a bitchy woman... Treat it nicely and it will continue to blow for years to come ;)

are you talking about the small vacuum hose attached to the standard bov? This is the vacuum hose which opens the BOV. By blocking it off, you will be stopping the BOV opening and hence will result in fluttering. Although not sure what damage it could cause? Wouldnt be any different from running with no bov i reckon... Someone confirm this.

I'll confirm it...you reckoned WRONG....

Like Duncan said...if the bov doesn't get a pressure source when boosting...it creeps open and you lose boost pressure through it...not rocket science here...just common sense....

it runs from the intake manifold to the blow off valve, right? that is the intake's way of telling the blow off valve when shit's getting serious and to remain closed.

if you unplug that line i would guess whenever you achieve boost you will hear the bov whistling and releasing your hard earned boost.

don't know how much you know about turbos and how the whole system works but i would also say the wastegate might open a bit later due to the lower pressures in your intake piping from the bov leak. if this happened, your turbo would spool harder so i wouldn't suggest it. you don't know when a turbo will let go.

treat it like a bitchy woman... Treat it nicely and it will continue to blow for years to come ;)

well put thanks,you have answered that all i wanted to know.

Disconnected mine because I was having issues with something, and yeah, a 300rwkw car turned into a 80rwkw car.

Wouldn't go over 10psi and stalled, and ran like shit.

It is there for a reason.

So no flutterz fully sic bro.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...