Jump to content
SAU Community

"dimple" Neodymium Magnetic Sump Plug Group Buy!


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 200
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Righteo pictures are here :D

dimple1i.th.jpg

dimple2.th.jpg

The Black Hole magnets actually come as a pack of 6 so they go all the way around the oil filter. Richard sent me them to test out, cut apart the oil filter, take photos and show the results of how they work.

In the next batch if people want to order them by all means we can.

Regarding the postage, I calculated it at around $3-$4 if the thickness passes with normal Ausrtalia post. If people want them ASAP however, I can send them in an express post 500g satchell for an extra $5 if that is cool?

If any one else wants to pay an extra $5 to get it express posted to gaurantee it being delivered before the weekend let me know by tomorrow morning.

Edited by PM-R33
Yeah that's fine. The sump plug will be the same as ours, the diff plug you will have to let me know the size though (might be the same as ours).

Is the ones on the skyline just that 13mm square hole? if so yeh i think its the same

Im cool to wait, Not due for a service for another few weeks so no rush, They look and sound good. Sounds like it will probably pull my big end away from my con rod lol.

But sound like they will be a good bit of insurance :D

Righteo I think I have gotten around the thickness problem. Without the plastic vials and when the plug is on its flat side, the thickness seems to be border line lol.

So when the plugs rock up and you are wondering "Where the hell is that plastic vial that he showed in the photo?". That is why. I did however include the little yellow paper with Dimple, M12 etc written on it :D

Hey Phil,

I am happy to hold mine until the clutch line arrives.. would save posting twice.. could prob leave mine in the vial then.. or take it out... if not let me know and i can transfer more monies to cover the extra costs..

also would be down for the oil filter ones along with diff & gb if we can get confirm on sizes.. on next group buy..

All sent! (I sent yours as well Craig, it's all good.)

Hopefully every one gets them by the end of the week, if not early next week. N1GTR I sent yours express so you should get it Thursday the latest.

One thing I was thinking of though, I hope they don't some how get lost by attaching themselves to a conveyer belt or something! They are just so damn strong lol.

As for the next group buy, I will awaite EJD001 to post up details for the diff and gearbox plugs and then start the next group buy than. We can do the diff/gearbox/sump/Black Holes all in the next group buy.

I'll keep every one posted.

:P

Edited by PM-R33

Sump, gearbox and diff really (the diff and gearbox will actually shed the most amount of metal).

I can't think of any thing else? Maybe on a GTR transfer case aswell?

Edited by PM-R33
Sump, gearbox and diff really (the diff and gearbox will actually shed the most amount of metal).

I can't think of any thing else? Maybe on a GTR transfer case aswell?

different thread size again

Yep just got it!

I have to say, it's a lot stronger than I was expecting. Definatly in for the other ones when you do those-just add me straight away and tell me how much :bunny:

Trader rating time :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...