Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Credit cards, yuk! But yes, works out bout the same. Untill you start getting charged intrest ofcourse

Actually, credit cards and the costs associated with using them in foreign currencies are not too bad. Many years ago, when I used to travel overseas I'd always make sure I got the admin types to obtain a reasonably large quantity of the appropriate foreign currency as petty cash to take with me. These days I just take a cash advance from my credit card from a teller machine when I land wherever I'm going. The foreign transaction fee and the currency conversion rate (which is never the best available) still work out to be less of a pain and reasonably competetive with the alternatives (trying to obtain cash before leaving the country, or changing Oz currency at a Bureau de Change).

  • Replies 226
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Credit cards, yuk! But yes, works out bout the same. Untill you start getting charged intrest ofcourse

CC are a necessary evil theses days, all my pay goes straight to mortgage and monthly bills and daily's expenses come out of that, so all extra stays in mortgage, CC is zeroed monthly so no interest is incurred. Really the only time I use my CC is online and when on holidays.

Edited by Missileman
  • 2 months later...

Dunlop, Goodyear, sumutio and kuhmo only rubber that can be sent in, there goes my toyo r1r's

Seriously? :(

They have really cracked down on it, I was hoping to get some more R1Rs from there myself.

I think we need to find a forwarding company that is in the US so you will get free delivery in the states then whatever shipping to aus

ive tried a few, All come to about $700 for the freight, Not worth it, Not to mention the dutie and impot tax that needs to be paid.

Im trying to work out my tax on a $1300 order now, I think it will look to be cheaper/same to buy local. Ends up being about $340 per corner, and they sell them at tiretrack for $250.

Ok so anything over 1k is 5% Customs duty and then GST (10%) so on $1380 to my door will cost $1587, il save about $60 buying them local. Now when shipping is done with Tiretrack, Is that to my or to fedex depot were i have to pick up/organise and pay to get them delived to me?

Edited by sydking

If you are looking at Federal tyres, then this thread is not for you...

i wasent originally, My list was, Toyo proes R1R, hankook ventus Rs3, Dunlop drizza star specs,

All of which either are not worth getting in the states or not avalible to ship.

Next best seems the Federal RSR, Which i can get for $1k to my door local

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...