Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I really hope it's worth it scandy.

Remember back to the early release blurbs about how the integrated bov, boost control solenoid and IW housing options were supposed to make it easier and cheaper to fit one!

So do I mate. Got the bill from Andrew today for the manifold and all the rest. So far this exercise has set me back around $4k... Not bad for something that started out as $100 modify and replace project.

So do I mate. Got the bill from Andrew today for the manifold and all the rest. So far this exercise has set me back around $4k... Not bad for something that started out as $100 modify and replace project.

LOL ahh... cars.

"and all ill have to do is change this $5...... $5,000 part" lol yep.

I sold my last car and bought my current car complete, every mod I wanted. Now it only has scraps of the original setup left as nearly everything needed to be redone lol.

Keen to see your results tho, Its a nice kit up you have going :thumbsup:

Pretty well.

More shit. Car came home tonight.

Intake;

IMG_9012.jpg

Starts at 3" and necks down to meet the 2.5" (?) intake. Trying to source a Pipercross filter with a Z32 mount. Then it's back to Andrew for any necessary mods, and to make up a decent bracket and close it off.

IMG_9011.jpg

IMG_9010.jpg

Lobster back hot pipe. Complicated little thing. 12 pieces.

Both will likely get coated wrinkle black to match the rest of the pipework.

And finally, the dump pipe.

IMG_9013.jpg

I'll have to find a bung for the o2 port. Only there for tuning. I won't be running a sensor.

The dump, pipe, and cat are all 1 piece. So I only have 2 flanges in the entire system. Lovely.

Oh yeah, if anyone in here knows their wiring and SR's, specifically ignition, shoot me a PM.

  • 2 weeks later...

This thread started 16 months ago..

I want a 8374. But I'm not prepared to wait for the next decade to get it..

What the Fire trUCK is going on..

Well i got my full race mani and BW 83/75 s300sx turbo in about 2 months, and it was only that long because the mani was made to order

Is there some sorta mad waiting list for the EFR's?

production issues actually, havent you read the thread start to end?

no point being interested if you havent

Yea righto mate

I've read the thread and know there's issues, just can't believe there's still a massive wait on a turbo that bearly anyone has..

There's was meant to be a "still" somewhere in my last statement :thumbsup:

lol i guess the 'still' would change everything.

i would assume BW arent in a big rush to roll them out anymore because of the prior issues. they are more likely to provide to a smaller client base for testing (workshops/race teams).

these are still on the map for me but as selfish as it is i want to see more results that show they are more phenomenal than the competitors.

Its very frustrating.

I've wanted one of these since I heard about them..

My other options BW s300 8375.. Bullseye S362 (virtually the same thing) or a gt35 with divided t4 housing.

All of which are proven performers.. And are all roughly the sme money delivered to my door..

Just not sure which would be the best on a daily street driven 1.5j.. :blink:

Just saw this too.. New for 2012.. looks like it could be a better option.

http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-airwerks/borgwarner-s300sx-fmw-turbo.html

Edited by --Redwork--

Awesome, keen as to hear how that goes... Whats the rest of the setup?

2.6

Ross crank trigger

Link ECU

aftermarket ignitior (cant remeber what brand) need it to run with Link

sard 800s

Full race twinscroll manifold

260cams

Koyo intercooler

Jun pump

adj cam gears

4 inch dump with high flow cat into 3.5 rear

Just saw this too.. New for 2012.. looks like it could be a better option.

http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-airwerks/borgwarner-s300sx-fmw-turbo.html

Both the 83-75 and the FMW are excellent bang-for-the-buck, great power and incredibly reliable. The FMW turbo is basically the "new for 2012" version of the S300SX 83-75. it uses an EFR 8374 compressor wheel combined with 2 different blade shape turbine wheels depending on what the application is. here is a photo of the comp wheel:

borgwarner-s300sx-fmw-turbo-1.jpg

our customers who cant wait for the EFR 8374 are generally using this turbo

Edited by Full-Race Geoff

Both the 83-75 and the FMW are excellent bang-for-the-buck, great power and incredibly reliable. The FMW turbo is basically the "new for 2012" version of the S300SX 83-75. it uses an EFR 8374 compressor wheel combined with 2 different blade shape turbine wheels depending on what the application is. here is a photo of the comp wheel:

borgwarner-s300sx-fmw-turbo-1.jpg

our customers who cant wait for the EFR 8374 are generally using this turbo

So benefits in response and top end in the new wheel design?

Can it be bought and swapped into a 84/75 housing Geoff?

Looks cool to say the least

The S300 FMW shares the identical turbine housing to the s300sx 83-75, 84-75 and 88-75, so yes you can share the turbine housings. the compressor housings you can not swap however.

if you decided to get one, i would suggest to get it with a different housing A/R and different blade shape than the turbo you currently have. the reason is that BW balances the non-BB turbo components individually, this allows you to mix and match between turbine wheels and housings on your turbo, without the need for a rebalance. these S300 turbos are extremely easy to disassemble and swap a turbine wheel on, just 2 wrenches on a left-hand-thread is all it takes

Edited by Full-Race Geoff

So to confirm iI could keep my turbine housing but I would need to swap out the compressor to match up with the new wheel design?

Is there any back to back testing of the old wheel design vs new?

So to confirm iI could keep my turbine housing but I would need to swap out the compressor to match up with the new wheel design?

Is there any back to back testing of the old wheel design vs new?

BTW id be keen to do some back to back testing of the new wheel if i was to be supplied with one :whistling:

i got one of your Full race manifolds as well :thumbsup:

Edited by GTR_JOEY

So the compressor housing can't be swapped because the inducer size of the wheel is bigger... Yes.??

Comparing the 2 compressor maps it looks like the new wheel moves more air even at low boost levels.. But I'm no expert at reading comp maps... :wacko:

So to confirm iI could keep my turbine housing but I would need to swap out the compressor to match up with the new wheel design?

Is there any back to back testing of the old wheel design vs new?

You keep your existing turbine housing but its a new CHRA.

The compressor is different and uses a different housing to suit, yet the turbine can use the exiting 75 housings despite being different.

My take on it is you can buy both the front and rear wheels along with a compressor housing and put it all together yourself.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...