Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

As this car ways a little over 1000 kg the rb20 will pull it along just fine for now. I do want se traction after all :P I will prob buy a rb25 later and open it up then fill it with goodies to make it nice and strong. From what I understand the rb20 can take more punishment than the other rb engines in stock form.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342533-rb-240z/page/2/#findComment-6152440
Share on other sites

The RB20 should serve you well for the time being, but if you do find yourself wanting some extra power then i would advise going with a RB25 like you mentioned above. Sure you can get good power from a RB20 but with the money thats needed to do that your better off with a 25.

And i take that from the pictures above your painting the car green? What's your reasoning behind this? It looked really nice in black.

Once again, lovely looking car, is going to be a beauty when its done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342533-rb-240z/page/2/#findComment-6153145
Share on other sites

As this car ways a little over 1000 kg the rb20 will pull it along just fine for now. I do want se traction after all :P I will prob buy a rb25 later and open it up then fill it with goodies to make it nice and strong. From what I understand the rb20 can take more punishment than the other rb engines in stock form.

the lime yellow or green as you call it is its original colour and it is rather rear in australia. I know its not every ones cup of tea but i like it.

Personaly I dont like black cars. I think it is a boring colour its way too hot especially in an old datsun with a huge trans tunnel and no air conditioning

and black is way to hard to keep clean

here are a few more pics of todays progress

I might even get the body painted next week ;D

IMG_1185.jpg

IMG_1184.jpg

IMG_1183.jpg

IMG_1182.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342533-rb-240z/page/2/#findComment-6153694
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Very Very nice project. My brother had one in that "Lime green" colour when I lived in the States. I still have a '70 240Z sitting in a garage at my mum's place in Seattle. One of these days (when I have a bigger garage) I'll bring it here and do something similar to you.

Can't wait to see some vids of this car running around a racetrack! Keep up the good work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342533-rb-240z/page/2/#findComment-6169038
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

awsome man,

I remeber seeing a s13 in japan with a 240 front on it looked fkn sick.

theres a 260 here in town i keep seeing driving around id love to buy and drop a 26 in it.

good luck with the project

49585469.png

irt355nsimg600x45010676.jpgUploaded with ImageShack.us

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342533-rb-240z/page/2/#findComment-6248986
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...