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Polished my headlights today, all yellowing is gone! Shiny clear headlights again. :D Also finally did the tiptronic reversal, why didn't I do that the day after I bought the car?

Daleo, can I ask what product you used on the lights, also did you have to pull the lights out from the car and clean the inside as well?

Meguiars Plastx plastic polish. Didn't remove them but taped up surrounding paint on guards & bumper, as it's quite a coarse polish if you get it on your paint. The yellowing wasn't on the inside, so no need to pull them apart.

Polished my headlights today, all yellowing is gone! Shiny clear headlights again. :P Also finally did the tiptronic reversal, why didn't I do that the day after I bought the car?

hrm i wouldnt mind doing the triptronic reversal..when i fit my nismo dash.. did it take you long?

hrm i wouldnt mind doing the triptronic reversal..when i fit my nismo dash.. did it take you long?

2 minutes to remove the gear knob and trans tunnel cover

5 minutes to cut the two wires and re-join them to each other

1 minute to put it all back together

:P

hahah thats about right!

it was the first mod i did 1 week after getting the car. so damn annoying with it incorrect!

nismo dash? nice!! i gots one too.

installed the HDi FMIC kit today. took around 3.5 hours :) had some problems with the clamps. should have just bought some worm drive ones.

was worried the fan wasnt working, had to go for a drive to get it to come on, i wired it up correctly first go :P

THEN i found some coolant, looks like the top radiator tank is cracked/leaking :D

hahah thats about right!

it was the first mod i did 1 week after getting the car. so damn annoying with it incorrect!

nismo dash? nice!! i gots one too.

installed the HDi FMIC kit today. took around 3.5 hours :) had some problems with the clamps. should have just bought some worm drive ones.

was worried the fan wasnt working, had to go for a drive to get it to come on, i wired it up correctly first go :P

THEN i found some coolant, looks like the top radiator tank is cracked/leaking :)

damn i had the same issue.. when i first got mine.

Watch those radiator shops.. theyll say that the top tank is cracked when its probably just the o-ring

they said mine was cracked..then said it will crack because its very thin then said it cracked again.. then charged me $500 for a custom top tank. - most will say the tank isnt a replacement part they can source, so youll have no choice to go custom ally top tank that they want to fabricate for a million bucks. if i was you. Id check out import monster for a complete rad i saw some recently for around the $200 mark..although shipping is going to bite you.

was it hard to fit the nismo dash?

ill need to pick your brain when that arrives :D

Edited by PetroDola

havent done the nismo dash yet mate, but this weekend ill take some pics for your reference!

shouldnt be all that difficult i would imagine.

thanks for the info RE the radiator. i might just get a custom job made up, but that probably means removing mine for them to copy :P

i kinda gotta drive the car. and yeah the top isnt cracked i think, just the o-ring that seals the plastic to the metal. its seeping out one side. is there a temporary fix i can do for a week or so?

havent done the nismo dash yet mate, but this weekend ill take some pics for your reference!

shouldnt be all that difficult i would imagine.

thanks for the info RE the radiator. i might just get a custom job made up, but that probably means removing mine for them to copy :P

i kinda gotta drive the car. and yeah the top isnt cracked i think, just the o-ring that seals the plastic to the metal. its seeping out one side. is there a temporary fix i can do for a week or so?

well the bastard thing is .. soon as that top tank comes off.. it distorts shape soon as it cools and is pulled off. so you have to be ultra quick. (i worked at a radiator shop for a few years so what they claim is correct to an extent).

And 9 times out of 10 it will crack the tank if the plastics old when its going back on if the plastic is worn thin. mind you im sure youll be alot softer on it than the radiator guys.

youll need to take the entire radiator out. use a pair of long nosed pliers and slowly fold back every aliminium nib that holds the tank on..theres about 50 around the entire lip so ityll take a while..hopefully its just a busted o-ring like mine under the tank thatsif its seeping from the top tank.(youll notice the oring soon as that tank comes off thats sitting in the countersunk bezel and a rectangle shape.. they generally break at the corners). the trick is.. getting the tank on after replacing the o-ring without cracking it. when folding the nibs back down. but you could be ultra lucky and knock the entire job on the head with the o-ring replacement. other than that.. i had that seepage for over a month and it wasnt a big deal for it to be a serious problem.. lost about 20mls each week. not enough to stop the radiator flowing anytime soon. just potentially hazardous later down the track.. hold out if you can.. dont rush into it. the worst thats gonna happen is some white spray around your engine bay..under high boost, but just keep an eye on it at the same time.

Edited by PetroDola
well the bastard thing is .. soon as that top tank comes off.. it distorts shape soon as it cools and is pulled off. so you have to be ultra quick. (i worked at a radiator shop for a few years so what they claim is correct to an extent).

And 9 times out of 10 it will crack the tank if the plastics old when its going back on if the plastic is worn thin. mind you im sure youll be alot softer on it than the radiator guys.

youll need to take the entire radiator out. use a pair of long nosed pliers and slowly fold back every aliminium nib that holds the tank on..theres about 50 around the entire lip so ityll take a while..hopefully its just a busted o-ring like mine under the tank thatsif its seeping from the top tank.(youll notice the oring soon as that tank comes off thats sitting in the countersunk bezel and a rectangle shape.. they generally break at the corners). the trick is.. getting the tank on after replacing the o-ring without cracking it. when folding the nibs back down. but you could be ultra lucky and knock the entire job on the head with the o-ring replacement. other than that.. i had that seepage for over a month and it wasnt a big deal for it to be a serious problem.. lost about 20mls each week. not enough to stop the radiator flowing anytime soon. just potentially hazardous later down the track.. hold out if you can.. dont rush into it. the worst thats gonna happen is some white spray around your engine bay..under high boost, but just keep an eye on it at the same time.

awesome thanks dude, its more the smell that annoys me lol

im looking into have a V35 radiator modded, and no im not in a rush, want to get the right one for the job. need to get the in-tank transmission cooler in there too! and also the PWR one crammed into the body work somewhere lol

Is it true that the 350z or one of the v35/g35 rads is compatible, with some minor modding of the radiator support?

If so I'd be going down that route, 50mm thick 350z rad's are going for $200- $400 US on Ebay motors, depends on what brand you choose.

Bigger core, alloy construction, just the issue of A/T heat exchanger to deal with.

Edited by Daleo

cheapo chinese ones from 200-300 delivered.

i THINK the outlets are in the right spot, but the radiator cap is waaaaay wrong. but then i could just do without the intake scoop at the top of the radiator. ill see what the experienced people did, there might be no other way except custom :)

personally i couldnt care less where the radiator cap was, as long as it worked well!

So blitz specify the same radiator hose kit for an NM35 and Z33. that means the radiator outlets are in the same spot!

as for the radiator cap, doesnt worry me, but i guess i have to make sure there is a cutout in the radiator support for the cap to come out

So blitz specify the same radiator hose kit for an NM35 and Z33. that means the radiator outlets are in the same spot!

as for the radiator cap, doesnt worry me, but i guess i have to make sure there is a cutout in the radiator support for the cap to come out

Well that's got to be a win! Even a little massaging of the cutout won't be a disaster, it's not like you're going to be cutting the rad support in half.

havent done anything to my stagea today..however i just purchased an R33 gtst for 5600$ from the private whole cars section.. should be good for 250kw with a tune and some new injectors apparently.

dont take offence stagea ppls.. im not selling the stagea - just making sure it gets looked after more (the stag is too good) and this becomes the thrash car. :)

corolla is up for sale also! :)

definate win for the radiator.. sounds like the bigger core and being complete ally is a goer for that price.

ityll cost you more than $300 for the custom top tank alone then youve gotta worry later that your bottom tank plastic will hold up against the top tank now being metal.

even though the bottom tank takes alot less pressure generally.. still something to think about for later.

Edited by PetroDola
Keir, youre gay for buying an R33 :)

Dale, i might just ramdomly cut things out lol but you have a good point! a small cutout wont make a huge difference!

lol i was waiting for that.

you evidently havent seen me drive.

i wasnt going to buy an s14 because it looked cool..and then blow its sr20 up the first week :)

im hoping the rb25 lasts at least 2 weeks. lol

i wouldve got kudos if i pasted this in the skyline thread. lol

Edited by PetroDola

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