Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help With Deciding Clutch

BMYHOE
 Share

Recommended Posts

BMYHOE Proficient

BMYHOE

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

just a little run down of my set up...

i have a rb30 twin cam in the build running a Gt35/40 1.06, looking at close to 400rwkw at the wheels once completed.

now the machine shop has asked me to give him the flywheel & pressure plate off the clutch im going to use to balance everything together...

& i dont have a clutch yet.

Now the box ill be running is a R33 Gtst skyline 5 speed -i may run a helical dog box from PPG once i blow this standard box.

will i need a Triple plate clutch or can i get away with a twin ??

what you guys thinkk?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342847-need-help-with-deciding-clutch/
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Both our track cars make 550hp at the wheels. One a 33GTR and the other a 33GTST. Both use an NPC Bigmouth Track Single plate clutch. Various track and drag days have been done on them without issues. I have pulled both clutches out after events and they still look brand new.

We have tested them to 610hp at the wheels but anything over that and you're on your own.

You MUST run a billet flywheel!

BMYHOE Proficient

BMYHOE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies..

after doing some more homework i have noticed a few people using Jim Berry clutches such as the "full monty" setup.

i actually rang Jim up and explained to him what i need, he has suggest the full monty set up with 4000lb clamp pressure plate... sounds good..

the car will see a far few open track days...

whats peoples thoughts on Jim Berry, i have heard mostly good things about him...

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
Posted
Both our track cars make 550hp at the wheels. One a 33GTR and the other a 33GTST. Both use an NPC Bigmouth Track Single plate clutch. Various track and drag days have been done on them without issues. I have pulled both clutches out after events and they still look brand new.

We have tested them to 610hp at the wheels but anything over that and you're on your own.

You MUST run a billet flywheel!

Hang on Im about to pay for and pick up my twincam rb30. Full forged engine. Modified head. Hope to make 400 kw also but my engine builder told me from the start my standard flywheel would be fine??? Is this not the case? Crank has already been balanced with my standard flywheel and my balancer. ?

BMYHOE Proficient

BMYHOE

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hang on Im about to pay for and pick up my twincam rb30. Full forged engine. Modified head. Hope to make 400 kw also but my engine builder told me from the start my standard flywheel would be fine??? Is this not the case? Crank has already been balanced with my standard flywheel and my balancer. ?

Im going to use a standard RB30 flywheel.. thats what most have recommended..

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
Both our track cars make 550hp at the wheels. One a 33GTR and the other a 33GTST. Both use an NPC Bigmouth Track Single plate clutch. Various track and drag days have been done on them without issues. I have pulled both clutches out after events and they still look brand new.

<cut>

Is it drivable on the street? Or are these track-only cars?

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
Just brought a Jim Berry Full Monty Clutch kit... cost me $1347.50 delivered to sydney.

Jim is a top bloke, great to deal with!

That's almost double what you'd pay for the same clutch from NPC

Hang on Im about to pay for and pick up my twincam rb30. Full forged engine. Modified head. Hope to make 400 kw also but my engine builder told me from the start my standard flywheel would be fine??? Is this not the case? Crank has already been balanced with my standard flywheel and my balancer. ?

If you value your feet and your car then yes.

May not explode like a grenade but the more over 300rwkw you are the higher the chance of it happening

I hope AT LEAST you have the turbo 25 flywheel and not using the RB30 flywheel?

Is it drivable on the street? Or are these track-only cars?

Both are street cars

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah I would think twice about using a heavy duty clutch on a big power car with a stock RB30 flywheel. do a search for jim berry clutches on this forum and check out the number of people who have had flywheel/clutch explosions using them. including one poor bloke whose car was so badly damaged it was written off with firewall and chassis rail damage (even guard and bonnet damage and engine block damage) which his jim berry clutch exploded at the start line on the drag strip with about 350kw. it's up to you buy on cars with that much power I would think a new performance flywheel would be a no brainer.

R.3.2.G.T.R Grand Master

R.3.2.G.T.R

Posted
Posted
yeah I would think twice about using a heavy duty clutch on a big power car with a stock RB30 flywheel. do a search for jim berry clutches on this forum and check out the number of people who have had flywheel/clutch explosions using them. including one poor bloke whose car was so badly damaged it was written off with firewall and chassis rail damage (even guard and bonnet damage and engine block damage) which his jim berry clutch exploded at the start line on the drag strip with about 350kw. it's up to you buy on cars with that much power I would think a new performance flywheel would be a no brainer.

exactly the reason why i skipped a rebuilt jb clutch and when nismo twin, didnt want to take a chance

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
Posted

had one of jims heavy duty singles 4200pounds clamp explode coming off the clutch a bit fast wilst rolling in second..with only 400rwhp, I'd go a multiplate and avoid the high clamp singles.

after look at the OS giken triple I'm currently running with 650+rwhp they are quality, just streetable, I'm sure the their twins with sprung centre would be very streetable

  • 1 month later...
BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted (edited)

No the best clutches ever bar none are carbon triples. Massive hp handling and drives 90% like stock. They are very progressive. I really dont understand why people even bother with singles on modified cars ? Once you try an xtreme / ATS / Carbonetics (all the same) triple you will never use anything else. More progressive tha a xtreme cushioned 9 button ceramic single and handles 1400hp with 6.5kg flywheel. They really do shit on all other clutches out there.

Edited by BK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Kinkstaah
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Whoops!
×
×
  • Create New...