Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I read a few threads about the quaife diff but hasn't found any feedback on its drivability on the road compared to the stock diff. It would be great if anyone can answer these questions:

Is it noisier than the stock diff ?

Does it lock up when you try to u turn on the street ?

Does it make the turning radius wider ?

Thanks

  • 3 months later...

Got my Quaife front diff a while ago. But about to install it soon. I just want to double check before I install it. If my rear is an e-diff from the V-spec would it work together as the e-diff as the car was originally designed with no front diff.

Thanks

The active diff might get confused, but then again it might not. You're not messing with sensors that play a big party on determining what the rear diff does. But the general consensus is that the active diff is the biggest piece of crap ever put into a Skyline and should be replaced with a real diff before doing the front.

  • 2 weeks later...

The active diff might get confused, but then again it might not. You're not messing with sensors that play a big party on determining what the rear diff does. But the general consensus is that the active diff is the biggest piece of crap ever put into a Skyline and should be replaced with a real diff before doing the front.

Thanks man. If I were to change from active diff to a real diff, I heard that I must also changed the rear diff housing, I guess from a non-vspec. By doing this what do I do with the electronics ? would it show errors on the dash board ?

Can't see any problem installing the Quaife in the front since the front diff is not computer controlled.

I am just afraid that since the characteristic of the front will change, the computer will affect how the rear behave.

I am just afraid that since the characteristic of the front will change, the computer will affect how the rear behave.

The odds are that your V spec is not working properly anyway so just disable it and fit your Quaife to the front.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...