Jump to content
SAU Community

Maxing Out The Stock Turbo R33


paulos
 Share

Recommended Posts

so far i have

turbo back exhuast

g-reddy profec b spec two boost controller( 10 psi)

blitz pod( one with an internal turbine i think)

tiny fmic

making 193rwkw

wanting to max out the stock turbo as i dont have enough money for new or highflow turbo or the supporting mods.

thinking fuel pump and nistune

im guessing i wouldent need new injectors as i imagine power will be round the 210-220rwkw

any other mods iv forgoten about?

would it be worth running 11 or 12 psi after the nistune and fuel pump or will there be stuff all performance gain?

cheers guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also as far as i can remember i have a mate that has a stock rb25 head laying around

would it be worth sending it off to get it polished and shaved 20-30thou to get a bit more compression to decrease lag?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

bummer figured if i was making 193 now with fuel pump and nistune id be good for atleast 210rwkw

mates got same mods except nistune making 204 or 206rwkw with fuel pump.

Mate dyno variance +/-15rwkw. To aim for "204 or 206rwkw" from a stock turbo is splitting hairs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah dude definitely get a fuel pump and nistune anyway, will run much better. Don't worry too much about the number :unsure:

+1

Just did the same thing, went with the bosch 040 and nistune, made 195rwkw on about 10-12 psi, massive difference from before nistune and after nistune though!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cheers for replys guys

yea i know rwkw arent everything.

is there any way you can make the peak power down more but give it more punch in the middle or something or dos that only work with a new turbo?

cant wait to do this mod, unless i sell r33 and el xr n get a 33 GTR. proberly not though, whats the price range il be expecting for nistune and fuel pump?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yep the way to do this is to tune car properly. either a stand alone, a remap, nisttune etc

the differences between an untuned GTST and a tuned GTST maxing the stock turbo is amazing

untuned the GTST feels pretty light on power and just plods along with progressive but light midrange

when it is tuned on it's knees and you dial in lots of timing everywhere the GTST really comes alive

im able to keep up with almost any car on the street and managed a few 0 to 100s in 4.8s

so before you sell up or plan mega $$$ on turbo's etc tune the car to its max and you'll be surprised

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is my list of things to do:

Remap $350

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...ad-t210097.html

High flow turbo $880

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hy...Hi-t313313.html

Fuel pump $130

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wa...ps-t322242.html

Grand total of $1460

You will have much better reliability out of the turbo once you highflow it, and toshi is rather good at maxing out stock ECU and AFM. Remember to get the remap done LAST and be very accurate with telling him your mods.

Alternatively you could spend $1100 on a nistune and $130 on a walbro or $200 on a bosch = $1230 or $1300 respectively

I know what id be doing, its small change for the additional benefits.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you don't care about turbo damage and possible engine damage, run the turbo at about 16psi and you should make about 210-220kw. the turbo may last a week or it may last a year. i was running mine at 15psi for quite a while and never had any problems. went a lot better than it did at 11psi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you don't care about turbo damage and possible engine damage, run the turbo at about 16psi and you should make about 210-220kw. the turbo may last a week or it may last a year. i was running mine at 15psi for quite a while and never had any problems. went a lot better than it did at 11psi.

Why would it damage the engine?

Or do you think broken bits of turbo can get sucked into through the exhaust side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can end up with bits of the compressor wheel in the engine (had a mate with a s2 33 have the butterfly in the throttle body be wedged open, and therefore rev it's arse off without touching the accelerator by a piece of the compressor wheel). also it seems as though small particles of ceramic can end up in the engine via the exhaust ports. i didn't think it was possible, but apparently it does happen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did some maintenance on the MX5, did the engine oil and filter which was uneventful, then I drained the coolant to put in the new reservoir and a thermostat, reservoir took 5 minutes  The thermostat, well that took.........3 bloody hours, what a job, the issue was the 3 bolts holding it on, one was easy, 2 were hidden and required a few 1/4 drive extensions, 1 more than I had, and a 1/4 swivel, which I also didn't have, and a good amount of playing contortionist  Getting the 2 unseen bolts back on was a time consuming nervous nightmare, as I couldn't see where they went there was alot of stabbing and hoping for the best, trying to line up a 8 mm bolt straight, which you cannot actually see or get a hand in there, with a 1/4 swivel in the mix was a nightmare Anyways, it's done now, all burped out, and run up to temp a few times, happily no leaks thank Jebus After the thermostat fiasco I decided I need a few mental health days away from tools before doing the rest of the servicing on it As for the Dunnydoore, it had the aircon regassed and it has a clean bill of health, thinking about taking it out on Monday for a cruise down the coast to look at some houses if weather permits 
    • In other important race car news, instead of fixing the race car I changed the crank seals on the chainsaw, because wood burner Some damn tight (and lock tighted) m6 head bolts Who knew plastic crank cases were a thing! Quick tip, don't trust the youtube videos that say you can pull the old seals out with the head on in a husky 440e...not true, their crank seal tucks in behind the cover both sides. I'm not sure I'm a psychopath, but these things are damn loud....hope I can put all the bits back in the right place    Happily, it is now back to turning fallen trees into a combination of firewood logs and wood chips....just need a clear day to get into it properly
    • I've got 60L of e85 in there at the moment
    • Don't forget to make sure the tank is full to the brim before you try to replace the fuel pump too, that is an essential step.
    • No, 260RS/4wd stagea is 33 GTR/GTS4 double wishbone all round, not struts. The 2wd cars are confusingly strut front. At there rear there is one balljoint at the outer end of the lower control arm. If you have HICAS (my Stagea doesn't, but I think 260RS did, there will be a balljoint of sorts where the HICAS arm attaches to the rear of the hub At the front, there are ball joints either end of the lower control arm, plus the tie rod end for the steering arm
×
×
  • Create New...