Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

beautiful example u have there Magnum PI!

what would that fetch these days Bob?

LOL.....

Magnum cars were actually 308 GTS's ( 4 in total during the 8 years of the show but don't get me started on that).

The 308's went from 1976-1985 and then the 328's went from 1985-1989. Series 2 or as they are know MY88.5 are the ones to get.

Crappy rusty UK imports are around $70K, Good Aussie delivered cars are around $100K with top shelf cars pulling another $20K.

Mine owes me $120K. Courtesy of a 1980 VC HDT Brock Commodore that I sold in the Muscle Car boom!

Cheers,

Bob.

Here are a couple of pics of it..........

post-78207-0-13075900-1320214208_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-11571100-1320214215_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-85168100-1320214221_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-73666500-1320214228_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-18844600-1320214235_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-71421500-1320214241_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-34981200-1320214246_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-38692300-1320214253_thumb.jpg

another red car bob - what was that 1 liner about men owning fast red cars? only joking.

the interior reminds me of my mums vh commodore, sle 4.2ltr

i know this is waaay off topic but i sold my dads lx torana ss which was a 5ltr, 2 door white, 1st owner, never in accident, genuine 200k on the clock - for only 4.5k in 2000 as we couldnt fetch anyore for it at the time.

i spotted 1 for sale about 18mths ago for 100k in a museum :(

i apologise guys in advance - i know this is an adm gtr register but i luv my aussie muscle cars

i know this is waaay off topic but i sold my dads lx torana ss which was a 5ltr, 2 door white, 1st owner, never in accident, genuine 200k on the clock - for only 4.5k in 2000 as we couldnt fetch anyore for it at the time.

i spotted 1 for sale about 18mths ago for 100k in a museum :(

i apologise guys in advance - i know this is an adm gtr register but i luv my aussie muscle cars

Like this one?

http://australianmusclecarsales.com.au/muscle/144683-lx-ss-torana-hatchback?query=torana

Bob.

Yes bob but doesn't look anywhere near as authentic.

no front spoiler, rear tailgate is not black, changed gearknob, non original wheels

Seller probably wants $50K...... Was worth $3K 10 years ago.

Bob.

The collector who is 50+ (sort of like me) remembers these cars dominate the ATCC in their heyday and respect their achievements. They are not interested in buying A $20K JDM that has very little history the same way a 25 year old is not interested in paying $60K plus for an ADM in years to come. Two totally different markets.

At the end of the day, it's your car and you can do with it as you like but if your primary objective is to maximise the value of your car then keep it as original as you can.

That's the exact reason I own this bucket ...

205843_10150394503809741_606454740_10492315_1931190_n.jpg

284669_10150394504009741_606454740_10492318_5612794_n.jpg

And I hear what you are saying ...but regarding the originality side of things will people really ever care that much about Aus delivered R32s? They were no different in performance to Japanese ones, minimal spec difference with regards to a few brake lights and gearbox coolers etc.

Most other cars that are collectible are because they were limited in build and different to other models. You mention HO, but same goes for VN Grp A, RS500s etc.

The R32 will suffer a little like the E30 M3 as the homologation car was a mass produced car. IMO, but no doubt will always be worth more then JDM R32s due to their genuine Austrlian history

Cant go too far wrong with a Cossie Bris, if I hadnt picked up my GTR I would have been all over a cossie.

Quality posts Bob, youve a lot of experience in the collector market and I thank you for sharing it with us.

Cant go too far wrong with a Cossie Bris, if I hadnt picked up my GTR I would have been all over a cossie.

Quality posts Bob, youve a lot of experience in the collector market and I thank you for sharing it with us.

Thanks mate, appreciate the kind words.

Bob.

Roy, that is an awesome bucket u have there, looks fantastic and beautiful colour!

Regarding your question on the value of an adm gtr, Bob is definitely far more educated than most of us here but I will divulge what I believe and have read. ppl are already paying more for a good example up to 60k hence there is value as they more so limited in no's most other collector cars (100 produced but only 67 accounted for) + there 128 listed changes and yes most are cosmetic BUT its also the fact that it has those aust compliance plates and it dominated the ATCC series before it was banned by the aust public.

Is it an aussie muscle car or an aussie muscler eater :)

Check this out, not many changes at all with the phase 3 when compared to the standard gt (more focused on engine mods). The compliance plates is where the money is at:

http://www.falcongt.com.au/PH3DIFF.html

Check this out, not many changes at all with the phase 3 when compared to the standard gt (more focused on engine mods). The compliance plates is where the money is at:

http://www.falcongt....au/PH3DIFF.html

Look at a Torana A9X vs. a Torana SLR 5000, the difference is very little but 3 times the price.

Bob.

The ADM GTR's were the only Skyline GTR's to ever be exported to another country by Nissan, this is one of the biggest attractions for me, this with the fact that the ADM cars are the rarest R32 GTR ever made.

The ADM GTR's were the only Skyline GTR's to ever be exported to another country by Nissan, this is one of the biggest attractions for me, this with the fact that the ADM cars are the rarest R32 GTR ever made.

this now changed though as the r35gtr have also exported their car.

hang on - i just noticed that you were referring to the "skyline GTRs" which is the r32, r33 & r34 series - hence i stand corrected >_<

just fyi mine's #16172, "AUSGTR"

have i actually i added your gtr to the latest list as i cannot find it?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/343750-aussie-delivered-r32-gtrs/page__st__300__p__6059388#entry6059388

Don't think you've added it.

RE modifying - Bob, totally agree a stocker will be of higher value and desirability to a collector, but as an owner who is unlikely to sell the car, I'm pretty comfortable 'modifying' to suit my tastes. Further, great comments and insight into the car collecting scene. If I ever have money one day, that'd be a perfectly happy hobby for me :D

Thinking of putting some Fast&Furious decals down the side of it. Thoughts? ;)

Edited by Ronin 09

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...