Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I will say my 2c the last time, I think the GTX3076R is a waste of time and money. Use a normal GT3076R, if you want more power go a GT3582R.

In what way is it a waste. Just a summary will suffice :) thx

The GTX series turbos seem to be laggier than their GT series counterparts - so while a GTX3076R flows better than a GT3076R, its also laggier. It makes it comparable to (and this has been proven) to a GT3082R in terms of power and lag. The problem with that you pay the price for a fancy new turbo that does nothing better than a previous already existing unit.

In effect they are bigger compressors in terms of flow, cost and lag but with equivalent naming and the same flow on the turbine side - meaning things like a GTX3076R stands to choke, which could also be the case with a GTX3582R though thats just speculation.

Try this...

Results:

SR20DET fitted with a GTX3076 .82 tuned with BP98 Fuel - 408hp @ 1.5bar

Well the GTX3076r looks to be identical to the GT3082r ! (both turbos were using the same rear housing)

Below is the Power and torque readings @ 1.5bar

The boost actually starts off at 1.4bar and creeps to 1.5bar toward redline

Thick line is Hi boost setting, Thin line Lo boost setting

nYPDkl.jpg

It had almost the exact same power delivery

Below is a graph of both turbos

Thick line is the GT3082r which made 409hp at the same boost and 445nm of torque - Thin line is the GTX3076r - 408hp and 437nm of torque

7oU3ul.jpg

Interesting..

I will say my 2c the last time, I think the GTX3076R is a waste of time and money. Use a normal GT3076R, if you want more power go a GT3582R.

Yep from the limited results that i have seen i tend to agree with you. it seems to look like this in terms of power AND response.

GT3071R

GTX3071R=GT3076R

GTX3076R=GT3582R

GTX3582

Garrett have made some bigger flowing turbos but seem to have just matched the performance to their old turbos that were one size bigger.

What i think was behind the introduction of the X series was that Garrett were concerned about the fact that some of the smaller companies were catching up on them and taking some of their market share. To counter this they updated their old series of turbos (and at the end of the day the X series is an update at best because the only thing that has changed is the compressor wheel and compressor housings on some).

The reason that they used billet wheels is because they didn't have to go out and spend $200,000+ on tooling up for a new set of cast wheels, and it also meant that they hit the market earlier as it takes time to tool up. I don't see that they planned these turbos to be a long term answer to the other manufactures but would buy them some time while they developed a complete new series. Also buy using billet wheels they can be a lot more dynamic with their designs as they can change them at anytime with out being up for huge tooling costs.

I was thinking about using a X3071R but after seeing the results i won't, due to the fact i'm running a 1.8 litre. Instead i'll stick with the old 3071R and a TS housing because the new version doesn't match it's response. I'm also interested in the EFR series as their results seem to be a lot more promising.

Edited by D_Stirls

If you can get one for equal to or cheaper than a GT3076R, otherwise a GT3076R would make more sense.

The only issue is I've seen forums on different sites show the gtx3071 have the same spool as gtx3076 due to same exhaust wheel. Yet be power capped to smaller compressor wheel. And they recon gtx3071 is pointless based on those findings.

What are your (or anyone elses) thoughts on this?

Thanks

as it has a smaller compressor, thats impossible

just because it has a larger rear, the smaller front will actually spin up and produce boost earlier if the shaft speed was equal.

a 71 shouldnt be identical in response to a 76

this is not necessarily easy to tell on a dyno however FYI

as it has a smaller compressor, thats impossible

just because it has a larger rear, the smaller front will actually spin up and produce boost earlier if the shaft speed was equal.

a 71 shouldnt be identical in response to a 76

this is not necessarily easy to tell on a dyno however FYI

Oh I see. But surely it would show on a boost vs rpm Duno graph.

Because on boost vs rpm: gtx3071 showed identical boost levels at same rpms as the 3076. Unless yours saying it gets to those rpms quicker?

Something to read.. (where I got my initial thoughts from)

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2110277&page=4

Scroll dkwn to results and Read on to page 5 As well. In fact start from page one if u want. Perrin (Subaru guys) in the states do some good dyne testing for response and power between gt and Gtx series.

I say split the difference and get a GT3076 with 52 trim comp from GCG. :P

GTX3071 is just a GT3076 in disguise

GTX3076 is just a GT35 in disguise.

Haha. I'm leaning towards gtx3071. Hoping for same flow and power as gt3076 but a tad less lag due to slightly smaller/lighter comp wheel.

Haha. I'm leaning towards gtx3071. Hoping for same flow and power as gt3076 but a tad less lag due to slightly smaller/lighter comp wheel.

With that amount of money, you're definitely braver than I am. I'd feel much more confident going with something like a Borg Warner EFR7064.

On paper the GTX3071Rs looked good, but now the GTX prove to be laggier - and a GT3071R is virtually identical in spool to a GT3076R... I'm not sure the result is going to be worth it.

With that amount of money, you're definitely braver than I am. I'd feel much more confident going with something like a Borg Warner EFR7064.

On paper the GTX3071Rs looked good, but now the GTX prove to be laggier - and a GT3071R is virtually identical in spool to a GT3076R... I'm not sure the result is going to be worth it.

I know nothing about the Borg Werner. What kind of response and power are we talking an an rb25? In comparison to the gt/Gtx turbos?

I know nothing about the Borg Werner. What kind of response and power are we talking an an rb25? In comparison to the gt/Gtx turbos?

Also I can get the gtx3071 cheaper than the one ur suggesting.... But money is irrelevant.

Just don't want to WASTE my money when I can buy a better product.

What's the advantage of a 52trim instead of the usual 56 trim?

I just bought one that was a 56 trim. I'm guessing the 52 trim has slightly less flow so it's slightly less laggy?

Correct. In fact I have my 3076 52 trim spooling earlier than my previous 3071 on my SR20, the qualification here is that I also fitted a 3.5 inch turbo back exhaust (previously 3 inch turbo back exhaust with the 3071). The dyno says it also makes more power earlier, and my bum confrms it.

Hmm was it this thread? right at the beginning where I said the 58trim comp wheel will negate any advantage of the ligter materials and newer tech.

Seems to be turning out a little like the Presision billet turbos, where the resellers were singings its praises and getting huge power from small turbos, then the "REAL" results came out and they were rather average.

garrett: it's lighter, billet and has new tech! it's awsome

zebra: none of that means shit. the small increase in trim means it'll spool the same as the next size up gt wheel.

thats what I was getting at, a lot of people have been saying they will spool the same as the next size down and make more power.

Imo the GT comp wheels are fine as they are/were, its the turbine that needs work

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...