Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That sounds like a normal GT3076 that kind of power, keen to see the dyno sheet to see how much laggier it is compared to a GT3076

They stopped intentionaly as I don't have internals. They can see this doing close to 350. No worries.

Will post the sheet when I have it.

100rwkw at 3900rpm is pretty late making power.

Do you have a plot of boost as well? It seems to be in quite late which makes me wonder if there is some improvements to be had with better boost control.

I will get that chart. Definately. I'm using a gizzmo IBC. U recon a better one will bring.power on sooner.

thats worse than my 3076r. mine makes 270@16psi on a mainline for reference internally gated

Don't look at power every dyno is different. Shape of chart is more important. So its laggier than gt3076?

.63 or .82 rear? internally gated or external?

it 'looks' a touch laggy. how does it drive?

.82

Drives very smooth. Have to admit. I wouldn't mind removing a big of lag. Just a bit. However im coming from stock turbo maybe om not that used to it. Wat things can reduce lag? Once it up and boogies it pulls like a freight train though. Lol

Really? Wasnt their goal to bring boost on earlier with the gtx?

Compare the flow maps, they flow more in the higher boost levels mainly, but also tend to be more comparable with a slightly bigger version of the same turbo. Read all of this thread, lots of pretty graphs to look at.

What made you think that?

Edited by Rolls

4800rpm for 200rwkw, ugh... Much lagging compared to a 3076

But its similar to a GTand that's pretty much where a GTX3076 sits for comparo.

unfortunately it seems Garretts GTX3x frame isn't living upto the claims

Compare the flow maps, they flow more in the higher boost levels mainly, but also tend to be more comparable with a slightly bigger version of the same turbo. Read all of this thread, lots of pretty graphs to look at.

What made you think that?

Ah ok. Have read all of the thread will be looking at getting a 3076 soon.

Dont know how I got that idea, mabey just saw the new model and presumed it would be better haha.

i would be interested to see a plot of a GT3040 (GT3082R) Vs' a GTX3076R as i think they will be pretty similar.

Really? Wasnt their goal to bring boost on earlier with the gtx?

Personally i think that that GTX range was an attempt to gain back a bit of the market share that they were beginning to lose to other performance turbo brands like Precision and Borg Warner. They seem to have been caught napping a bit and while the others were designing completely new turbos Garrett were relying on their now old GT range and didn't seem to be working on anything new.

That is also the reason why i think that the wheels are billet as the time from design to production is a lot less with a billet part than cast, and it also means that they can easily tweek the design without the expense of re tooling.

The GTX range at the end of the day is nothing more than an updated compressor, it's not a completely new turbo just a touch up on the old design.

Edited by D_Stirls

I do remember the first releases on the GTX implied they would be at least as responsive as the GT, but I have been suspicious of that claim from the start... however this result looks too laggy. I suspect something isn't right somewhere, probably a leak of some sort more than boost control.

For what its worth, the GTX3076R would really be a GTX3077R if Garrett stuck to their normal naming conventions.

I do remember the first releases on the GTX implied they would be at least as responsive as the GT, but I have been suspicious of that claim from the start... however this result looks too laggy. I suspect something isn't right somewhere, probably a leak of some sort more than boost control.

For what its worth, the GTX3076R would really be a GTX3077R if Garrett stuck to their normal naming conventions.

Anyone else actually got one of these? So I can compare how abnormally lsggy might e is. Ugh.

i would be interested to see a plot of a GT3040 (GT3082R) Vs' a GTX3076R as i think they will be pretty similar.

Someone previously posted on here (I think it was Ozz) on an SR20 they were virtually identical - you'd be forgiven thinking they were the same turbo on different dyno runs.

Found it on another forum - scroll down to post 37.

http://www.silviawa.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=58974&st=20

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...