Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Modifications are worth exponentially more to the owner of a car - it's a crying shame, but it's reality.

You are 100% correct, I wont contest that. However, buyers who are looking for a modified GT-R, or have the intention of modifying one, will realise the value of obtaining a car with the majority of modifications already done. For the first time GT-R owner it might be hard to justify a 15-20k premium over a decent quality standard GT-R.

Those with the intentions of buying a standard car will look elsewhere, buy their GT-R and 2 or 3 weeks later realise that these cars are not meant to be left standard. They will then start to journey down the path of modifying it, and empty their pockets many times over. I was in this boat, and if I was to do it again I would definately look at purchasing a modified one. Would I import a modified car, condition unknown? probably not, as these cars are far from being cheap to maintain/repair. Would I buy one from an enthusiast locally with all modifications documented and performed by reputable workshops, for sure.

Re. the 350z suggestion, there are no locally delivered cars this side of 200k that are even in the same league as a 500+HP GT-R. If you, however, prefer the smell of a new car to performance, the 350z is a good option. This thread was about buying modified GT-Rs, and looks like it could turn into a meaningful discussion on used GT-R prices, hopefully it wont change.

check out SECRT

top secret r33 gtr - featured in several magazines, in sydney. sale price is about 80k

fully tuned gtr by top secret, in top secret gold too :wave:

No is isnt. The car was far from "tuned" by Top Secret

N/A - Please find MY PM to you below  - cut and pasted with NOT a word changed.

Where do I ask YOU to pay for ANYTHING.

I would have done this through PM - but you choose to misquote me on a ublic stage and I would just like to show the the TRUTH.

Re: GTR  

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks again for your reply Ken.

Would you agree to me paying a third party to perform a compression test and a leak down test on the motor prior to me making a decision?

Thanks again.

__________________

Romper Stomper REX

Sorry, if you meant you are paying. But as i read it, it seems you were asking me to pay for it. And I believe i also replied the same answer to you. This is an inspection done by third party normally costing 180 inclusive of some other miner checks. And paid by interested party only.

N/A - I dont understand how it could be misunderstood

"Would you agree to me paying a third party to perform a compression test and a leak down test on the motor prior to me making a decision?"

How does that imply you will pay for anthing - im asking YOU if i can have the motor tested at my expense...

N/A - I dont understand how  it could be misunderstood

"Would you agree to me paying a third party to perform a compression test and a leak down test on the motor prior to me making a decision?"  

How does that imply you will pay for anthing - im asking YOU if i can have the motor tested at my expense...

Again, I apologise if i read it wrong. I read it as.. would you agree to me, paying a third party... meaning me paying. Besides, I dont think anyone would not agree to any inspection if it doesnt cost the seller anything and also considering the price of the vehicle. So when you asked, I assumed you meant that i would have to pay for it.

Those with the intentions of buying a standard car will look elsewhere, buy their GT-R and 2 or 3 weeks later realise that these cars are not meant to be left standard. They will then start to journey down the path of modifying it, and empty their pockets many times over.

No doubt about that!!!! Thank god santa brought me a deep pocket full of shoosh-ka! & I still want more with currently 270kw at the wheels.

there are no locally delivered cars this side of 200k that are even in the same league as a 500+HP GT-R.

We have 2 cars I mainly drive, one is the series 3 gtr the other is a $240K E55. In all honesty, I drive the gtr 8 out of 10 times, because It make me feel like I lost my virginity all over again :wave:. The a benz, as much as I love it, it's more a business impression than anything. But, it makes me feel like I'm going through a midlife crisis compared to the gtr... And believe me this benz is quick!!! Off the line the gtr eats it, but rolling, the benz is there all the way!

Overall for the money, the gtr is awesome value, the closest thing I could compare it is the 996 turbo "manual" not the tiptronic.

Ph1's car is awsome and worth every cent. Having completed the GTR search and buy thing which took over 6 months I gave up trying to buy local. In the time I was looking to buy everything I looked at wasn't worth the effort. I don't know whether my idea of a good car is different from others but every GTR I looked at under $40K stock or not I wasn't interested in. So I went the import option, spoke to numerous importers about the type of car required and the standard I expected, and not one of then said they could land a series 2+ R33 GTR V-spec for under $43K. That is the usual landed, complied, but add to that figure tyres and rego. As it ended up, my series 2 V-spec Grade 4.5 and Grade A interior landed complied rego and tyres will leave me stuff all out of $50K. Compliance under Raws is a deal more expensive than it used to be. Yes I could have got lower grade, higher mileage cars much cheaper from Japan, but if I am going to spend this money I want it to be a close to perfect as possible, and under RAWS you run the risk of it not being complied if it has accident damage like alot do in that price bracket. Add to this, the cost of the Cusco Caster arms & rear camber arms, whiteline pinapples & front camber bush, BBS rims and tyres, Apexi T-max coil-overs, DBA 4000 series rotors, various nismo "add rice" bits, Race brake pads and I am well on the way to the puchase price of PH1's car with basically no mods compared to his list. If his car had come up when I was looking I would have bought it in a second but as it stands I sure I will still be happy. Just have to pay compliace when its finished and I will have my own V-spec GTR. Can't wait!

Don't get me wrong, I am sure there are genuine bargains out there in the price bracket you are talking about but a good rule is you pay for what you get. And since I am rarely lucky enough to stumble across a bargain I will pay the premuim price for a car that I know I will be happy with, even if the price scares me sometimes.

That was the point I was trying to make, I have bought the last 3 unique cars, and in the past 4 months nearly all of the GTR's (modified or not) are still for sale. Some of the prices are ridiculous - i mean 49999 for a stock GTR, I mean what are these people on.

Hmmm, the thing is there are people out there paying that amount. There must be, otherwise people wouldn't bother trying to get these prices. Older or business folks with plenty of money, where its not really an object, and time is the main issue. And hell if you sold one for $10-20k over what you bought it for you're laughing aren't you. Do that one or twice a year its a pretty nice suplement to your income.. so i see *why* people do it.

One thing is I definitely *have* noticed with GTR, is that the prices reflected for modifications are much higher, even though to be honest a lot of the parts are no more inherently expensive than the GTS-T equivelent. I could take everything off my GTS-T (ok, not everything would fit granted), put it onto any GTR in about a week and it would fetch maybe $10k for a GTR instantly where as with my -T would be maybe $3-4k over a stock car. Same items, different car, strange! And it some cases its not like a boost controller, suspension, etc is inherently more complicated for a GTR. Not everything sure, just it seems the increased costs of labour on a GTR are reflected in the end price for modified cars. You pay a premium for all aspects of owning one.

Also, people owning a GTR take it to a workshop and their eyes light up "a guy with money" and will charge them a lot more. You definitely need to know your stuff if you have a GTR I think to avoid being charged to death. There are many buyers out there who jump straight to a GTR never owning a skyline in their life. They are the ones that go to a big name performance shop that specialise in GTR: "hmm, turbo upgrade - $10k.. hmm, expensive but i guess that is what they cost".

In the end this gets reflected in the end price for a well modified example.

"Hmmm, the thing is there are people out there paying that amount. There must be, otherwise people wouldn't bother trying to get these prices."

With private sales, with such demands you definitely run the risk of pricing yourself out of the viable market. Sure, the "golden buyer" is out there, but they are few and far between. As I said, things can change drastically as time drags on and that original price you were after becomes more and more far fetched. End result is it takes a long time to sell the car and you end up with a lower price anyway. Knowing most of us, the time wasted becomes extra $$$ as things go wrong or you keep modding just for the hell of it (it's a bit of a disease, I know).

With caryard prices, which is what I assume you were referring to in the following sentence, it's a different kettle of fish. For one, used car lot prices DO factor in that the price will be haggled over (something a lot of private sellers don't always do, or not to the same extent). Secondly, buying from a licenced dealer has an increased sense of security (I use the word 'sense', as, in reality, it isn't always the case...) - and this leads to a greater sticker price. It's always been the case, whether you are buying a GTR or an excel.

As for GTR parts prices - they ARE often more expensive (generic items aside). And obviously, in some cases, you are buying two parts instead of one. What I find silly, is that people somethimes quote their modification costs and include labour. A $2k turbo is a $2k turbo - if you paid someone another $5k to install it, that's not going to be of interest to someone who can do the job themselves (thus the replacement value becomes quite different). Recently I had a salesman at a certain parramatta road caryard tell me that a particular s15 had over $30k in mods. It certainly wasn't the case. As I pointed this out to him, he pointed to an s-afc unit in the dash and said "that there is an $8k ecu". Maybe he even had receipts to prove it (he wasn't getting them out without a $500 deposit (tosser) - but it sure as hell wasn't a $8k unit to me, even if someone had paid over $7k to have it installed. LOL)

Again, I agree that these cars are 'worth' a lot of money.

Incidentally we went shopping for GTRs recently (the s15 was an alternative) and couldn't find ANY in NSW that were good - modified or not.

i went looking with my friend a bit, and you're right, good examples were hard to find but you do find them. My friend picked up a 33GTR V-spec .. few rough bits but stockish for $33k about 2 months ago. V-spec, as much accident history as probably any other and seems to be running fine since he got it. Attached is a pic so you can see the at least external condition and know i'm not full of crap -- as many will say "oh you can get a 33GTR for low 30's" without much evidence to back it up. Its true, you can if you get lucky, and that is why people go "why pay $40k+ for one". Its for those one or two that are out there, and we looked at a few when i was living in VIC.

NSW is a strange market, even 32 and 33 which are difficult to sell at good prices in VIC seem to go fairly regularly for sale on here, more than anywhere else. So I guess there is more demand there.

So bargains can be had out there, many people are desperate for cash often when they do sell and its often the only way to get themselves out of the debt. That is often one of the advantages of private sales, there will always be one "desperate" seller out there for what you're after if you look for a few months.

The real worry about someone desperate to sell for money reasons is that you wonder if they had the money to service it properly. People seem very keen to pay $500 for the latest shiny thing with flashing lights, but buggered if they will pay $60 for oil and an oil filter.

I think this is really the thing. Some nineteen year old drug dealer that gets himself a GTR is going to thrash the crap out of it, then expect to hustle the buyer when he gets tired of it.

On the other hand you have the 50+ year old executive type going through a late mid life crisis, that probably has a four million dollar waterfront home and a yacht. He wants a really nice GTR because he cannot be stuffed fiddling around with it. $50K or $75K does not really matter to him. If it developes a problem, he takes it around to the same mechanic that looks after the Merc, the M3, and his wife's Porsche. If it costs a couple of grand to fix that funny noise, that really does not matter either.

Most young guys in their twenties lust after a GTR, but for most it is financially well out of their reach. They are COMPETING with people that do have a lot of cash to spend. So its no good crying that a particular car is not worth sixty grand. It is worth whatever people are prepared to pay for it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...