Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As title, some c#nthead backed into my car, cracking the fibreglass front bar and cracking the paint etc.

No note from the culprit of course, but a nice lady saw it all and wrote me a note on my car containing the douche's rego plate only. Not being a car enthusiast, she couldn't tell make/model.

I have already lodged an incident with the police and they will do what they can though i don't have too much confidence in it getting anywhere but fingers crossed.

There's no point going through insurance as the excess will pretty much pay for the repair.

Any ideas?

Fecking ghey, my car has a banana bar on it too (which i love and there's only about 15 or so in the world/all in oz).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345274-some-cnt-backed-into-my-car/
Share on other sites

Damn that sucks man.

Quick question, what does a Banana front bar look like? Never heard of that :blink:

I know..i've had so much sh!t happen to me lately i'm surprised /wrist hasn't come across my mind yet bah, lol.

The bar is a very smooth, lightweight design with perfect fit.

This pic shows it off quite nicely

gallery_56118_3384_1212.jpg

mate thats all u need, a rego number. if u are with just cars and your car gets hit while parked, it doesnt affect a thing. u dont have to pay excess, doesnt affect your rating - nothin. i done it 3 times. did u get the ladies phone number ? the insurance company may want to call her.

mate thats all u need, a rego number. if u are with just cars and your car gets hit while parked, it doesnt affect a thing. u dont have to pay excess, doesnt affect your rating - nothin. i done it 3 times. did u get the ladies phone number ? the insurance company may want to call her.

^^^ Agreed!

The most critical info you should have is the lady's name/addy/ph + the rego# of the offending car (ie her note).

Then the person who backed into you hasn't got a leg to stand on.

There should be more people like that lady/witness. :blink:

What everyone's saying is correct

You should be able to give your insurer the rego of the car, the details of your witness, so they can contact her, get them to do it quickly, so the details are fresh in her mind. She doesn't need to be an expert, the rego & colour of the car should be sufficient.

It won't be considered an "at fault" claim, because clearly, you weren't at fault...

And for gawd's sake, if you see someone plowing into other cars, dob the arseholes in! :blink:

I've waited around to give details to people whose cars have been hit in the past, and when my car was reversed into by a 4WD, causing $4000 in damage, I had a solicitor & 2 doctors as witnesses!

Karma FTW!

very sorry to hijack your thread mate, but i have a small question.

if you were inside your car while the engine was running yet stationary/motionless, for example waiting for the car infront to move. however the car infront decides to reverse into the front of me, causing minmal damage to the bumper/fmic/headlight.

would this be classed as the same situation you guys are talking about?

thanks.

very sorry to hijack your thread mate, but i have a small question.

if you were inside your car while the engine was running yet stationary/motionless, for example waiting for the car infront to move. however the car infront decides to reverse into the front of me, causing minmal damage to the bumper/fmic/headlight.

would this be classed as the same situation you guys are talking about?

thanks.

Probably a little different, in that I believe his car was parked, and he was nowhere near it.

Did you have a witness to this/ admission from the driver? I'd imagine that without a witness, this is going to be VERY hard to prove, especially if the other party claims you drove into the back of them...

Hope it works out ok for both of you.

Thanks for the advice all! I will try my luck and see.

Yep Mavric had a contact that makes them but they're not available anymore. It was a fair few years ago..

Edit - i should state Mavric was the original supplier of the bars and they were sold in very limited numbers. I love exclusivity :blink: (oh wait, i drive an r33 ..)

Edited by Touge Kyousou

iu had a lady drive in to me in a car park while i was in the car stationary, about a month ago. i literally picked it up from the spray shop 10 mins earlier, the car was finished, complete, done, then BANG

she got out and came over and promptly said "looks like were both at fault here"

i said clearly not, got her details, though she made it clear she didnt want to go through insurance, so i got necessary parts and quote for paint and she just paid to cover the cost.

feel sorry for you though bro! =\

such a shame

^^^ That's really bad luck Alec. Hope things don't occur in 3s.

Christmas time is a time of more erratic driving too peeps - it's everywhere!

er yeah its all that ham and egg nog.. this happened to me a few months back. took a while but the police got the owners details eventually who i had to play phone tag with for a while. Kept denying it even with 3 or 4 witnesses and it wasnt easy as i only had 3rd party not comprehensive but i eventually got them to make a claim when i threatened them with civil action.

Hope you either have compre or a more co-operative offender..

good luck!

Had exactly this happen to me a few months back.

Gotta make sure the person admits to reversing into you (get them to sign a paper saying so in the meantime) and then fills out a cop form to say so. (i did this so there wasnt any issue and it went thru iunsurance without a hitch)

If they dont its very easy for them to jump around n say you drove into the back of them and they will ping you for the costs...

Good luck

very sorry to hijack your thread mate, but i have a small question.

if you were inside your car while the engine was running yet stationary/motionless, for example waiting for the car infront to move. however the car infront decides to reverse into the front of me, causing minmal damage to the bumper/fmic/headlight.

would this be classed as the same situation you guys are talking about?

thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...