Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I am buying a CC (greddy style/D1 etc - the square shaped ones) and I want to mount it like Hamish did

(http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129549-oil-catch-can-mounting-and-roughting/page-2?hl=+oil). I will baffle it by putting stainless steel inside. I have 2 questions

1. does it matter where the stainless steel wool/stuff is placed inside the CC?

2. does the hose from the rocker cover have to go to a specific port/hose barb etc on the CC?

Thanks in advance guys

Amir

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129549-oil-catch-can-mounting-and-roughting/page-2?hl=+oil

  • 11 months later...

I have a catch can setup two cam cover hoses straight to catch can and the return back to original return on the turbo inlet. I have notice that i have have massive amount of condensation in my catch can clear water type that has a strong e85 smell i don't have any trace of water in my oil when checking the dip stick and noting to instigate that i have a gasket bypass issue Is this normal or do i need to get it checked out ?

Normal with e85, warm up tune can make a noticeable difference though. You want to get it in closed loop asap after cold start.

Matt

Hi Matt

Anyone you can recommend that i can go to that can do this tune? not sure if i can do it on mine as i am running a Nistune ECU

Anton

Hi Matt

Anyone you can recommend that i can go to that can do this tune? not sure if i can do it on mine as i am running a Nistune ECU

Anton

You need to post up your location in your profile if you want a tuner that is not thousands of miles away.

  • 3 months later...

Running a single turbo on a rb26dett, anyone ever vented the crankcase through the rear turbo oil return. I was thinking about tying it together with the rocker cover breather hoses and then to a catch can and either going to atmosphere or running a hose back to the intake. to create some vacuum in the crankcase. What do you guys think? I'm just wondering if i'd be sucking oil up instead of just pressure.

  • 6 months later...
  • 7 months later...

Does anyone have any drawings or illustrations of what sort of baffling should be inside the catch can for a track setup?

Is it extensive?

A picture would be nice.

Just now, KiwiRS4T said:

Stangely enough Google has heaps. Just Google "baffled catch can design"

I figured i would ask here, as being a GTR owner, getting real world GTR examples that work would be a start :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...