Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thime has come fo me to look at upgrade

i have rb25detneo in the 32

ill list the current mods

gcg 3076 the one withthe skyline rear on it

axpxi 3" exhaust

generic 3" dump

sard 650 cc injectors with hks fuel rail and hks iun tank gtr pump with sard reg

tomi b spec cams

hks 1.3mm head gasket

generic made intercooler

ok heres my thought ive live with the out of controll boost isue for a wile

so what ime thinking

garrett .82mm t2 twinscroll rear

6 boost mani to suit

wastegate what size i dont know

so new dump

and maybee one of those plazaman plenums with 80 mm tb

and wack onthe greddy cooler i have had sitting around for a wile

ps it has power fc and a avcr along with pwr radiotor lower temp thermostat etc

any sugestions much appricated

Edited by neo32
  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

your injector size is wrong, 260cc is smaller than factory, double check what you have

and what on earth is a garrett T2? where did you find this from?

how much power do u want to make

First thing's first upgrade those injectors! 260cc would max out before 300hp, which is no use to a GT30 turbo. Go for 500 or 750cc depending on how much power you want to make.

Don't get a T28 flanged turbo, go T3, skylines hate small turbos. What's the deal with your turbo at the moment? Are you saying its a highflowed stock turbo with the CHRA of a GT3076? If so, just order the front and rear housings to suit, and make your own genuine GT3076r! Get the .82A/R external gate rear housing.

As for wastegate, 44mm Tial should do the trick, Tial gear is cheap and good quality from the states - take advantage of the good aussie dollar atm!

sorry about the errors i have a gt3076 gcg special with the skyline rear housing on it .63 ar was thinking twin scroll to keep it responsive and .82 to give it some top end legson current build lookin at a safe 280

but who knows after a engin rebuild 350 + but i dont want to be messing with turbo again

made the mistake last time and not doing enough research and rushe my purchase base on price and car sitting at tuners broken

thanks again

paul stop being a hater lol

Hater?

Realist mate. I ain't going to tell you that it'll make 350rwkw+ if it simply won't.

As you said you don't wanna touch the turbo again, you'll wanna work out now if you want 350rwkw+ or not, thats the point you kinda missed.

.82 rear internally gated low mount will be ok for 300rwkws. The twin scroll's available in .84, I personally experienced no difference, might change with a twin scroll manifold.

If you want to crack a good 300kw, save yourself the cash and buy the .82IW garrett housing from GCG.

Drop the car off to a good mechanic and have them fit the housing and make you a nice dump for it. Make sure you have the big can actuator in say 18psi to suit.

Cost you under 1500 with a new tune and all I will say, 300rwkw and a massive smile on your face.

For reference if you go a 6boob twin scroll you are going to put a hole in 5 grand. (2 gates + manifold 3k alone)

GL

change the turbo housing from t2 to t3 to keep Paul happy :)

Your talking about some serious mods here, I would expect min 12k to have anything actually running and the potential for a lot more $$.

I agree with GTScott, put a 0.82 garrett housing on it with the appropriate dump pipe (GCG can sell you this) and that will get you a nice 300rwkw for very little cost.

true twin scroll manifold needs 2 wastgates you need to add labour and other un forseen costs that could arise and tune will probally be a bit more, just change the rear housing and put a gate on the manifold and get a retune the stock manifolds have been proven to flow 300KW so your just spending money you dont have to.

Plazaman plenum looks great i had one ... cant use it anymore though due to motor change....really makes changing plugs so much easier :P

If you want to crack a good 300kw, save yourself the cash and buy the .82IW garrett housing from GCG.

Drop the car off to a good mechanic and have them fit the housing and make you a nice dump for it. Make sure you have the big can actuator in say 18psi to suit.

Cost you under 1500 with a new tune and all I will say, 300rwkw and a massive smile on your face.

For reference if you go a 6boob twin scroll you are going to put a hole in 5 grand. (2 gates + manifold 3k alone)

GL

I got the manifold twin scroll turbo, and twin 38mm waste gates, and lines for closer to 4k from Kyle at 6 boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...