Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im looking at different options for my vl with a rb25. i was thinking of getting custom made intercooler piping

however if i was to get a rb25 kit and modify pieces of it what would you guys think i would have to mod or would i be better with a vl turbo kit

I bought a RB25 intercooler kit and fitted it upto my HR31 with a RB25. A few extra silicon hoses and it fits, i turned my cooler upside down so the tanks were at the top and it works fine. I didn't cut any holes or do anything to the body of the car, my pipes went between the headlights. Might be different for a VL though.

we just about Build your CAR JOEL,

do you need NEW post every time.

haha you almost have haha i jsut keep running into problems as i go along but much appreciated of everyones help i have got so much more done in the last 2 months than i did in 2 years of it being off the road

and ads i will try that its mainly the comp housing thats the diff between vl turbo and rb25 and i think the rb25 will work the best just may need extendin in some areas to accomodate for the larger engine bay.

My intercooler piping is off a vl so I'd say it will work

vl turbo kit or rb25 kit?

and ads thanks again considering i have a little bit more room in my engine bay it should be a little bit easier haha

The piping kit should work on different coolers as long as the inlet/outlet on the intercooler is in the same spot on both. My GK Tech cooler has 3" inlet and outlet at the bottom on each side FYI

The piping kit should work on different coolers as long as the inlet/outlet on the intercooler is in the same spot on both. My GK Tech cooler has 3" inlet and outlet at the bottom on each side FYI

yeah but the gktech cooler is smaller so the piping is suited to that however i found a piping kit with the same set up on the for a larger cooler

Looking at a stock engine bay on a VL turbo, I would personally tackle the job by means of an off the shelf VL cooler kit along with the addition of some cleverly positioned silicon joiners.

It appears just about everything is in the right spot, just needing to extend or reposition a couple of sections to suit the difference in motor/intake design and the same for the turbo (comp housing as stated and position).

Was a decent question IMO, simple resolve too. Best of luck.

hey guyys got a vl turbo intercooler piping kit yesterday most of it fits up well oulet from cooler to throttle body connects up fine with one cut to make it fit the standard crossover pipe however to compressor housing is a diffrent story. i have 2 ways of doing cutting a hole just above the chassis rail sideways or cutting a hole where the airbox used to be and buy a 90 degree joiner and a straight piece of piping. only prob is cutting hole sideways above chassis rail if i was to do that the power sterring lines get in the way so i may go with the hole where airbox was. ill keep posting how im going.

going to be a few days however due to christmas and damn missus wants to go out

hey guys ran into another problem the vac line from actuator needs somehre to go i have read you can t piece it off BOV however i removed my carbon canister and put a screw in the line on the manifold next to the throttle body (not the one on throttle body) would this be a good place to put it or would it onl be a vac line not boost also?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...